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Salad

Dressing for Slaw, Lettuce or Celery

A simple dressing made with salt, sugar, mustard, vinegar, and egg yolks, cooked until thick.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Dressing for Slaw, Lettuce or Celery

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a bowl, combine salt, sugar, mustard, vinegar, and egg yolks.

  2. Place the bowl in a pot of hot water.

  3. Stir often and cook until the mixture thickens.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + mustardtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,424 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Mustard + eggtop 28% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together9,210 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e)-2-octenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Proteins set as they heat, thickening the dressing into a creamy body.
Vinegar
Adds acidity and sharp flavour that cuts through the richness of the yolks.
Mustard
Adds sharp flavour and helps hold the dressing together as an emulsion.
Sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the sharpness of the vinegar and mustard.

The step that matters

Cook over hot water, stirring often until thickened. Egg yolks thicken through gentle heat, but if they get too hot they can curdle or scramble. Stirring often and using hot water rather than direct heat keeps the heat even and the texture smooth.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, vinegar, egg):

  1. Mustardthe original
  2. Capsicumfits about as well
  3. Cucumberfits about as well
  4. Shallotfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, vinegar, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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