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Salad

Cold-slaw or Cabbage Salad

A chilled cabbage salad dressed with a creamy egg yolk and vinegar sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and cabbage match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,645 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

Cold-slaw or Cabbage Salad

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a light cream.

  2. Gradually stir in the cider vinegar.

  3. Add the sugar and stir over low heat until it thickens like custard.

  4. Remove from heat and add the butter and anchovy mustard.

  5. Set the sauce on ice to cool.

Serve

  1. Pour the cold sauce over the sliced cabbage just before serving.

  2. Mix in celery if desired.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + cabbagetop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,645 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Cider + vinegartop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,431 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  3. Vinegar + mustardtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Egg + anchovytop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,330 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  5. Cider + mustardtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,414 recipes

    Shared aroma: linalool (floral, citrus).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the sauce into a custard-like dressing as they set with gentle heat.
Cider vinegar
Adds acidity that sharpens the sauce and balances the sweetness and richness.
Sugar
Sweetens the dressing and balances the sharpness of the vinegar.
Butter
Adds fat that makes the sauce smoother and richer on the palate.
Cabbage
Serves as the crisp base that the cold sauce coats.

The step that matters

Thicken the sauce over low heat. Egg yolks set when heated, so keeping the heat low and stirring constantly prevents them from scrambling into lumps while the sauce thickens smoothly.

Swap the cabbage

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, cider, vinegar, sugar, butter, anchovy, mustard):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Horseradishfits better
  3. Radishfits better
  4. Cabbagethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, cider, vinegar, sugar, butter, anchovy, mustard. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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