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Mushroom Catchup

A preserved mushroom condiment made by fermenting mushrooms with spices and boiling the resulting liquid.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Ginger and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,620 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catchup

Ingredients

Directions

Salt the mushrooms

  1. Layer mushrooms in an earthen bowl, sprinkling each layer with salt.

  2. Let sit in a cool, dry place for 6 hours, mixing and mashing them occasionally.

  3. Cover with a towel and let sit for 3 days, stirring occasionally.

  4. Drain the juice into an earthen jar.

Spice and cook

  1. For each quart of juice, add ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, and ground mace.

  2. Cover the jar tightly and place it in a saucepan with cold water.

  3. Bring to a boil and maintain boiling for 6 hours, adding boiling water as needed.

  4. Pour the catchup into a saucepan and boil slowly for 30 minutes, skimming off any foam.

Cool and bottle

  1. Transfer to an earthen bowl and let cool in a cool place.

  2. Once cold and clear, pour off the liquid without disturbing the sediment and bottle it in tightly-corked bottles.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Ginger + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + macetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Ginger + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,800 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Mushroom + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Mushrooms
Provide the bulk of the liquid that becomes the ketchup once salted and drawn out.
Coarse sea salt
Draws water out of the mushrooms and preserves the juice during the long resting period.
Ginger
Adds warm, aromatic pungency to the finished sauce.
Cayenne pepper
Adds heat that gives the ketchup its sharp, spicy bite.

The step that matters

Maintaining the boil in the sealed jar. The jar must stay tightly covered and the water bath must keep boiling for the full 6 hours. Gentle, sustained heat extracts flavor from the spices and concentrates the liquid, while adding boiling water keeps the bath from running dry and the heat even.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, ginger, allspice, pepper):

  1. Clovefits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Turmericfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, ginger, allspice, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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