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Salad

Cooked Dressing

A creamy dressing made with butter, sugar, salt, mustard, paprika, egg yolks, hot water, and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Cooked Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. Mix the egg yolks, sugar, salt, mustard, and paprika together.

  2. Add the hot water and vinegar, then beat in a double boiler while stirring constantly.

  3. When thick and creamy, stir in the creamed butter.

Finish

  1. Optionally, add whipped cream or egg whites.

  2. For fruit salad, omit the mustard and use lemon juice instead of vinegar.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Butter + eggtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  4. Butter + sugartop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together98,233 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Sugar + mustardtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,424 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the dressing as they cook gently, giving it a creamy body.
Butter
Adds richness and smoothness to the cooked dressing.
Vinegar
Adds sharpness that balances the richness of the yolks and butter.

The step that matters

Beating over the double boiler while stirring constantly. Egg yolks thicken gently at moderate heat but can scramble if they get too hot or are left unstirred. Constant stirring over indirect heat keeps the mixture smooth and thick.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, sugar, egg, vinegar):

  1. Mustardthe original
  2. Capsicumfits about as well
  3. Cucumberfits about as well
  4. Shallotfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, sugar, egg, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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