Why it works: Allspice and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Tomato Catsup
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the tomatoes
Boil the ripe tomatoes, skins and all, until soft.
Mash the tomatoes through a colander to remove skins and seeds.
Make the ketchup
Mix salt, brown sugar, cayenne pepper, allspice, mace, celery seed, and cinnamon in a muslin bag.
Add the spice bag and vinegar to the tomato mixture.
Cook slowly until reduced by half.
For extra flavor, add brandy a few minutes before finishing.
Bottle and store
Bottle the catsup, seal, and store in a cool place.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Tomato + celerytop 4% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,377 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
-
Pepper + celerytop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together16,012 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
-
Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together6,395 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Allspice + celerytop 6% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,422 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Ripe tomatoes
- Provide the main body, pulp and tomato flavor of the ketchup.
- Brown sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps balance the acidity of the vinegar.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that gives the ketchup its tang and helps preserve it.
- Salt
- Seasons the ketchup and helps draw out flavor and preserve it.
The step that matters
Cook slowly until reduced by half. Long, gentle simmering thickens the tomato pulp by evaporating water, concentrating flavor. Cooking too fast or too hot can scorch the sugars and sticking solids at the bottom of the pan, giving a burnt taste.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (tomato, sugar, pepper, allspice, celery, cinnamon, vinegar):
- Clovefits better
- Nutmegfits better
- Tarragonfits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against tomato, sugar, pepper, allspice, celery, cinnamon, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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