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Dessert

Cheesecakes and Blam Mange

A baked cheese custard made with curdled milk, eggs, sugar, butter, sherry, nutmeg, currants, and pastry-lined pattypans.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Cheesecakes and Blam Mange

Oven, in the book's wordsA slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the curd

  1. Boil the milk, then pour it hot into a basin and mix in the rennet.

  2. After an hour, break up the curd and drain off the whey.

  3. Spread the curd on a sieve until free from liquid.

Make the filling

  1. Dissolve the powdered sugar in the butter, then add the egg yolks, sherry, and grated nutmeg.

  2. Mix the currants with the curd and combine all ingredients.

Bake

  1. Line pattypans with light pastry, pour the mixture in, and bake at 300°F (150°C) for 25 minutes.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Sherry + curranttop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together393 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  3. Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,505 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  4. Milk + sherrytop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,479 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3,5-trimethylpyrazine (cocoa, roasted).

  5. Milk + nutmegtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,685 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Milk
Forms the curd that becomes the body of the cheesecake.
Rennet
Enzyme that curdles the milk so it separates into curds and whey.
Egg yolks
Add richness and help the filling set when baked.
Powdered sugar
Adds sweetness and dissolves into the butter for a smooth base.
Butter
Adds fat for richness and a softer, smoother texture.

The step that matters

Draining the curd thoroughly. Excess whey left in the curd makes the filling watery, so it may not set firmly in the pastry during baking.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, sugar, butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Peachfits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, sugar, butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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