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Dessert

Sugar Icing

A sweet icing made from refined sugar, starch, and egg whites, optionally colored.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Saffron and spinach match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 149 recipes. Both carry nonanal, which smells fat, citrus. The science ↓

Sugar Icing

Oven, in the book's wordsA cool oven

Ingredients

Directions

Make the icing

  1. Combine the sugar and starch and pound the mixture finely.

  2. Sift the mixture through gauze.

  3. Beat the egg whites until frothy, ensuring to beat in one direction.

  4. Gradually add the powdered sugar to the egg whites to maintain the froth.

  5. Continue whipping for an additional 30 minutes, adding more sugar if the icing is too thin.

  6. Set aside a small amount of icing for decoration.

Color and finish

  1. To color the icing, mix a few drops of coloring with a little colorless spirit.

  2. Stir the colored mixture into the icing until the desired tint is achieved.

  3. Spread the icing smoothly over the cake with a knife once it comes out of the oven.

  4. Dry the icing in a cool oven.

  5. Use a cone made of stiff paper to squeeze the colored icing for decoration.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Saffron + spinachtop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together149 recipes

    Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).

  2. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Egg + spinachtop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,323 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  4. Sugar + saffrontop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together650 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  5. Sugar + spinachtop 32% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,033 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Extra refined sugar
Forms the bulk of the icing and gives it sweetness and a solid, smooth body.
Egg whites
Whipped into foam, they trap air and give the icing its light, stiff structure.
Fine white starch
Adds body to the icing and helps keep it from becoming overly brittle or runny.

The step that matters

Whipping in the sugar while maintaining the froth. Sugar must be added gradually so the whipped egg white foam stays stable. Adding it too fast collapses the foam, leaving a dense, thin icing that will not hold its shape.

Swap the saffron

The recipe marks saffron as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, spinach):

  1. Nutmegfits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Capersfits better
  4. Saffronthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, spinach. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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