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Dressing for Cold Slaw

A custard-like dressing made with eggs, sugar, butter, mustard, pepper, and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Dressing for Cold Slaw

Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Dressing for Cold Slaw

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Beat the eggs with the sugar.

  2. Add the butter, mustard, and pepper.

  3. Stir in the vinegar.

  4. Cook the mixture in a dish over low heat, stirring until it thickens like a soft custard.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,814 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  4. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Thicken as they cook, giving the dressing its body and creamy texture.
Sugar
Adds sweetness to balance the sharpness of the vinegar.
Butter
Adds richness and fat, softening the dressing's flavour and mouthfeel.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that gives the dressing its tang.
Mustard
Adds sharp flavour and helps emulsify the dressing.

The step that matters

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly. Egg proteins set gently as they warm. Over high heat or without stirring, they can scramble into lumps, so the dressing stays smooth only when cooked slowly and stirred.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, butter, pepper, vinegar):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Mustardthe original
  3. Cucumberfits about as well
  4. Shallotfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, butter, pepper, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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