Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Tomato Chow-chow
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no cooking times; the times in the steps were added in transcription, so check for doneness rather than trusting the clock.
Prepare the vegetables
Slice the green tomatoes, red peppers, and onions.
Sprinkle the slices with coarse sea salt in layers.
Let them sit under a weight overnight.
Drain the vegetables and place them in a preserving pan.
Cook and bottle
Add vinegar, brown sugar, horseradish, black pepper, allspice, cloves, mace, ginger, and cinnamon.
Bring to a boil, then simmer slowly for 1 hour, stirring well.
After boiling, add white mustard seed and bottle the mixture.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Horseradish + allspicetop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together654 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
-
Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together17,451 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
-
Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together6,395 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Onion + horseradishtop 7% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,784 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Green tomatoes
- Form the bulk of the relish and soften into tender pieces during long simmering.
- Red peppers
- Add sweetness and colour while contributing soft, mild bulk to the mixture.
- Onions
- Add savoury depth and body as they soften in the salted, simmered mixture.
- Vinegar
- Provides acidity that sharpens the flavour and helps preserve the finished relish.
- Brown sugar
- Adds sweetness and molasses flavour that balances the vinegar's sharpness.
- White mustard seed
- Adds a sharp, pungent bite and a slight crunch to the finished relish.
The step that matters
Salting and resting overnight. Salt draws water out of the sliced vegetables by osmosis. Draining well before cooking keeps the relish thick rather than watery and lets it hold its texture.
Swap the tomato
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, onion, vinegar, sugar, horseradish, allspice, clove):
- Mustardfits better
- Shallotfits better
- Turnipfits better
- Tomatothe original
Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, onion, vinegar, sugar, horseradish, allspice, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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