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The Other Side Smoked

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Shallot and garlic match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,000 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

The Other Side Smoked

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Rub the meat well with vinegar.

  2. Mix allspice, black pepper, shallots, garlic, coarse sea salt, coarse sugar, and bay leaves.

  3. Rub the mixture thoroughly into the meat and place it in a deep pan for 48 hours.

  4. After 48 hours, remove the meat, wipe it dry, and lard it with shreds of sweet fat bacon.

  5. Roll the meat tightly into collars and bind them with tape.

  6. Envelope the collars in calico or thin canvas and store them in a deep jar until the next day.

  7. Boil the used spices, herbs, and salts with enough porter to cover the meat, skimming until no more scum arises.

  8. Pour the hot mixture over the meat and cover it with leather for a week.

  9. Hang the collars in a draft of air, turning them every morning.

  10. Suspend them in your chimney and smoke for two weeks using oak lops or sawdust.

  11. After smoking, coat the collars with gelatin composition and store them in a cool place.

  12. Slice and broil the collars after three months, or boil them in ready boiling water to eat cold.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Shallot + garlictop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,000 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together386 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Sugar + gelatintop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,778 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Pepper + garlictop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,090 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the garlic

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, allspice, pepper, shallot, sugar, meat, gelatin):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Clovefits better
  3. Cinnamonfits better
  4. Garlicthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, allspice, pepper, shallot, sugar, meat, gelatin. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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