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Mushroom Catsup

A fermented mushroom condiment seasoned with spices and salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and ginger match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,038 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Prepare the mushrooms

  1. Crush large black flat mushrooms in a vessel.

  2. Mix in a large handful of coarse sea salt for each peck.

  3. Transfer the mixture to a crock.

  4. Macerate in a cool oven at 300°F (150°C) for six hours.

  5. Press out the juice once cooled.

Spice and reduce

  1. Boil the juice with mace, Jamaica pepper, black pepper, cloves, ginger, and coarse sea salt.

  2. Simmer the mixture. Skim until no more impurities rise.

  3. Let it sit for one to two days.

  4. Boil again until reduced to half its original quantity.

Bottle

  1. Bottle the mixture once cooled.

  2. Cork securely, sealing with wax.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Mace + clovetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Pepper + gingertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,800 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Mushroom + clovetop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,663 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Large black flap mushrooms
Break down into juice that forms the liquid base of the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and acts as a preservative for the juice.
Cloves
Adds warm, aromatic spice flavor to the reduced juice.
Black pepper
Adds pungent heat and spice to the finished ketchup.
Ginger
Adds warm, aromatic spice flavor to the reduced juice.
Mace
Adds a warm, aromatic spice flavor to the reduced juice.

The step that matters

Boil again until reduced to half its original quantity. Reduction by boiling concentrates the flavors and thickens the liquid, and evaporating enough water helps the ketchup keep well once bottled.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, pepper, clove, ginger):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Turmericfits better
  3. Cinnamonfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, pepper, clove, ginger. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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