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To Cure Meat

A method for curing hams and hog shoulders using salt, saltpeter, baking soda, borax, and brine.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Ham and pork are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 13% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,638 recipes. Both carry 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline, which smells popcorn, roasted. The science ↓

To Cure Meat

Ingredients

Directions

Salt and brine

  1. Rub coarse sea salt on the hams and shoulders and lay them in tubs for 24 hours.

  2. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg or an Irish potato using salt and water.

  3. Before boiling, add 1 ounce of saltpeter and 1 ounce of baking soda for each 200 pounds of pork.

  4. Once the brine boils, remove from heat and let it cool overnight.

Pack and cure

  1. Shake off loose salt from the meat and pack it tightly in a meat barrel.

  2. Pour the cold brine over the meat, ensuring it is fully covered, and weigh it down.

  3. Let it cure for 4 weeks for small hams and 6 weeks for large hams.

Smoke and finish

  1. After curing, wash each piece with warm water.

  2. Hang the meat to smoke until dry and firm.

  3. Plunge each piece into boiling water for about 5 seconds.

  4. Lay the meat skin down on a board in the sun for one day.

  5. Rub each piece thoroughly with powdered borax, ensuring to get into all cracks and on the bone.

  6. Hang the meat in your smokehouse for preservation.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Ham + porktop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,638 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (popcorn, roasted).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Hams and shoulders of hogs
The main meat that is salted, cured, and smoked into the finished product.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the meat and seasons it, slowing spoilage during curing.
Saltpeter
Helps keep the meat's pink color during curing and inhibits bacterial growth.
Baking soda
Raises the brine's alkalinity, which affects how the cure works on the meat.

The step that matters

Letting the meat cure for the full time. Salt must penetrate fully to the centre of the meat before the cure is safe. Stopping early leaves the interior under-cured and vulnerable to spoilage, so the full 4 or 6 week period matters.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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