Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
Ratafia Cream
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Dissolve the isinglass in the milk.
Break the ratafia cakes into fine pieces and sift through a coarse sieve.
Alternatively, pound the bitter almonds with some sugar.
Make the cream
In a large bowl, whisk the heavy cream until it forms a light froth.
Add the ratafia cakes or almond mixture to the whipped cream and mix well.
Stir in the dissolved isinglass until combined.
Set and serve
Pour the mixture into a mold and refrigerate until set, about 1 hour.
Once set, carefully turn it out and serve.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Almond + creamtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,130 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-heptanol (bitter, floral).
-
Milk + almondtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,800 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).
-
Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together29,399 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
-
Almond + sugartop 18% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,679 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Isinglass
- Gelatin-like setting agent that firms the cream so it holds its shape when turned out.
- Heavy cream
- Provides fat and body, whipped to a light froth to give the dessert a light, rich texture.
- Ratafia cakes
- Supply the characteristic almond-like flavour that defines the dish.
- Milk
- Liquid that carries the isinglass and loosens the cream mixture before it sets.
The step that matters
Dissolve the isinglass fully before combining. Isinglass sets firmly once it cools, so if it is not completely dissolved in the milk it can form lumps and leave uneven, rubbery pockets in the set cream.
Swap the almond
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, sugar, cream):
- Almondthe original
- Chestnutfits about as well
- Pistachiofits about as well
- Hazelnutfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against milk, sugar, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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