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Fish in Jelly

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horseradish and onion match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,784 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Fish in Jelly

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

  1. Clean the head of a codfish and place it in a pot with water, calf's foot, horseradish, onion, mace, white pepper, lemon peel, and bacon.

  2. Simmer until it begins to thicken, then strain and remove fat and sediment.

  3. Boil the strained liquid with sherry, beaten egg whites, and lemon peel for three minutes without stirring.

  4. Add an eggshell and let it settle for 30 minutes.

  5. Strain the liquid through a sieve and pour some into a soaked mold.

  6. Prepare the fish by cleaning and removing bones, then roll them up and dry in a cloth.

  7. Finely slice an onion, season with salt and pepper, and layer it with the mackerel, adding roe between each.

  8. Cover with vinegar, mixed spice, chillies, and sugar, then cook in a moderate oven at 350°F (175°C) for about three hours.

  9. Once cold, drain the fish from vinegar and layer it in the jelly.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horseradish + oniontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,784 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Horseradish + lemontop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,155 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Mace + white peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,695 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  4. Sherry + vinegartop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together660 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  5. Horseradish + vinegartop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,609 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (horseradish, onion, white pepper, lemon, sherry, egg, vinegar):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Parsleyfits better
  3. Dillfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against horseradish, onion, white pepper, lemon, sherry, egg, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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