Why it works: Horseradish and onion match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,784 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Fish in Jelly
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Clean the head of a codfish and place it in a pot with water, calf's foot, horseradish, onion, mace, white pepper, lemon peel, and bacon.
Simmer until it begins to thicken, then strain and remove fat and sediment.
Boil the strained liquid with sherry, beaten egg whites, and lemon peel for three minutes without stirring.
Add an eggshell and let it settle for 30 minutes.
Strain the liquid through a sieve and pour some into a soaked mold.
Prepare the fish by cleaning and removing bones, then roll them up and dry in a cloth.
Finely slice an onion, season with salt and pepper, and layer it with the mackerel, adding roe between each.
Cover with vinegar, mixed spice, chillies, and sugar, then cook in a moderate oven at 350°F (175°C) for about three hours.
Once cold, drain the fish from vinegar and layer it in the jelly.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Horseradish + oniontop 7% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,784 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Horseradish + lemontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,155 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Mace + white peppertop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together1,695 recipes
Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).
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Sherry + vinegartop 11% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together660 recipes
Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).
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Horseradish + vinegartop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,609 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (horseradish, onion, white pepper, lemon, sherry, egg, vinegar):
- Tarragonfits better
- Parsleyfits better
- Dillfits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against horseradish, onion, white pepper, lemon, sherry, egg, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
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