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Quenelles of Fowl

A savory quenelle made from ground chicken, cream, and a white broth-based sauce, served with a buttered paper cover.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Celery and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 16,012 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Quenelles of Fowl

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the celery

  1. Cover celery with water and boil slowly for 3 hours, skimming as needed.

Make the panada

  1. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine white broth and butter, and bring to a boil.

  2. Sift flour onto a piece of white paper, then stir into the boiling broth and butter mixture.

  3. Cook until the mixture no longer sticks to your fingers, about 3 minutes.

  4. Stir in 4 yolks of eggs and cook for a few more minutes, then transfer to a plate and cover with buttered paper.

Prepare the chicken and finish

  1. Pound the chicken in a marble mortar, adding cream until very fine.

  2. Rub the chicken through a wire sieve into a plate, ensuring no meat is wasted.

  3. For every ½ pound of chicken, mix in 4 ounces of the panada and 3 ounces of butter in the mortar.

  4. Pound together, adding salt and cayenne pepper to taste.

  5. Add 2 or 3 more yolks of eggs and mix well.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Celery + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together16,012 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Celery + chickentop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,375 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Celery + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,905 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

White broth or stock
Forms the liquid base of the panada that gives the quenelle its moisture.
Fresh butter
Adds fat and richness, keeping the quenelle tender and smooth.
Fine flour
Thickens the boiling broth into a paste that gives the mixture body and structure.
Yolks of eggs
Bind the mixture and enrich it, helping it set gently when cooked.
Chicken
Provides the main protein that forms the body of the quenelle.

The step that matters

Cook the panada until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Undercooked panada stays wet and will make the chicken mixture loose and hard to shape. Cooking the flour paste drives off excess water and gelatinizes the starch, giving a firm base that holds the quenelle together.

Swap the celery

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, egg, chicken, cream, pepper):

  1. Nutmegfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Parsleyfits better
  4. Celerythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, egg, chicken, cream, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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