Why it works: Capers and mustard match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 624 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Genoa Sauce
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the base
Pound the anchovies, capers, garlic, curry powder, and mustard flour in a mortar until smooth.
Moisten the mixture with marsala, caper vinegar, and cold water.
Transfer to a saucepan and heat.
Make the thickening
Knead baked flour with butter until smooth.
Finish the sauce
Skim the sauce, stir in the thickening, and boil for 10 minutes.
Strain the sauce and serve.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Capers + mustardtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together624 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + garlictop 6% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together834 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Garlic + mustardtop 6% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together4,053 recipes
Shared aroma: linalool (floral, citrus).
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Capers + flourtop 6% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,024 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together14,067 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Anchovies
- Dissolve into the sauce to give it a deep, savoury flavour base.
- Baked flour
- Thickens the sauce as its starch swells when heated with the butter and liquid.
- Butter
- Binds with the baked flour and adds richness and a smooth, silky body.
- Capers
- Add a sharp, briny acidity that brightens the sauce.
- Marsala
- Adds wine acidity and a rich, fortified aroma to the sauce.
The step that matters
Stir in the thickening and boil. Kneaded flour and butter must be stirred in smoothly so no lumps form; the starch then needs to boil to fully thicken and lose its raw flour taste.
Swap the clove
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (capers, garlic, flour, mustard, vinegar, butter):
- Tarragonfits better
- Parsleyfits better
- Turmericfits better
- Clovethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against capers, garlic, flour, mustard, vinegar, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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