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A Codling Pie

A pie of small codlings cooked with vine leaves, sweetened with sugar, topped with puff pastry and custard.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,950 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

A Codling Pie

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the codlings

  1. Gather small codlings and place them in a clean brass pan with spring water.

  2. Lay vine leaves on top and cover with a cloth to retain steam.

  3. When the codlings soften, peel off the skin and return them to the water with the vine leaves.

  4. Hang the pan over the fire until the codlings turn a fine green.

  5. Remove the codlings from the water and place them in a deep dish, adding enough sugar to sweeten.

Make the pie

  1. Make a lid with rich puff pastry and bake it.

  2. Once baked, remove the lid and cut it into pieces, placing them inside the pie with points upward.

Make the custard and finish

  1. For the custard, boil 1 pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon and enough sugar to sweeten.

  2. Let it cool, then stir in 4 beaten egg yolks.

  3. Heat the mixture, stirring until thickened but do not let it boil.

  4. Pour the custard over the codlings and garnish with thin strips of lemon peel.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + lemontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Codlings
Provide the fruit that softens and forms the main body of the pie filling.
Egg yolks
Thicken the cream custard as they set gently with heat, giving it body.
Cream
Forms the base of the custard, giving it richness and a smooth texture.
Rich puff pastry
Forms the flaky, buttery lid that bakes golden over the filling.
Sugar
Sweetens both the fruit and the custard to balance the tartness of the codlings.

The step that matters

Heating the custard without boiling. Egg yolks thicken as they warm, but if the custard boils they can curdle and turn grainy, so it must be stirred gently over low heat until it just thickens.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, cream, cinnamon, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits better
  3. Figfits about as well
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, cream, cinnamon, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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