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Drink

To Make Shrub

A fermented beverage made from milk, citrus rinds and juice, wine, rum, brandy, and sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and orange match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

To Make Shrub

Ingredients

Directions

Infuse and curdle

  1. Pare the lemons and Seville oranges very thin and add the rinds to the milk.

  2. Juice twelve lemons and twelve Seville oranges, then add the juice to the mixture.

  3. Let it stand for twenty-four hours.

Sweeten and rest

  1. Add the double-refined sugar and stir well.

  2. Transfer to a jug, cover tightly, and let it stand for a fortnight.

Strain and bottle

  1. Run it through a jelly-bag and bottle for use.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + orangetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Rum + brandytop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,058 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Red wine + rumtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together23 recipes

    Shared aroma: eugenol (clove, spicy).

  4. Red wine + brandytop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together103 recipes

    Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, sweet).

  5. Milk + rumtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together967 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl 2-methylbutyrate (fruity, apple).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

New milk
Its proteins curdle when the citrus juice is added, and the curds carry away solids to clarify the liquid.
Lemons
Their juice adds sharp acidity that curdles the milk and balances the sweetness.
Seville oranges
Their juice adds acidity, and their thinly pared rinds add aromatic oils and bitterness.
Double-refined sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the acidity of the citrus and the bitterness of the rinds.
Rum
Adds alcohol, which carries the citrus aromas and helps keep the finished liquid stable.
Brandy
Adds alcohol and body, which carries the citrus aromas and helps keep the finished liquid stable.

The step that matters

Adding the citrus juice to the milk. The acid in the juice makes the milk curdle, and the curds must be left to form and settle so they can be strained out later. Adding the juice too gently or too little can leave the liquid cloudy and unclear.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, red wine, orange, rum, brandy, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Pineapplefits better
  3. Applefits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, red wine, orange, rum, brandy, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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