Why it works: Mustard and capers match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 624 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Morcan’s Tartan Sauce—to Mix Mustard
Ingredients
Directions
Make the sauce
In a bowl, combine mustard, salt, and cayenne pepper.
Add the yolk of the raw egg and mix well.
Slowly add sweet oil, stirring until thick.
Thin the mixture with vinegar to your desired consistency.
Add the chopped ingredients
Chop the cucumber pickles, capers, parsley, and leek finely.
Stir the chopped ingredients into the sauce about an hour before serving.
If the sauce is too thick, add cold water to thin it out.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Mustard + caperstop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together624 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + parsleytop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,550 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + leektop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together27 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Pepper + parsleytop 2% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together34,122 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Cucumber + caperstop 3% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together303 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolk
- Emulsifies the oil and mustard so the sauce becomes thick and smooth.
- Sweet oil
- Provides the fat that, emulsified with the yolk, gives the sauce its body and richness.
- Mixed mustard
- Helps hold the emulsion together and adds sharp, tangy flavour.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that brightens the sauce and adjusts its consistency.
- Cucumber pickles
- Add crunch and sour, salty flavour that cut through the richness.
- Capers
- Add briny, sharp flavour and a pleasant bite.
The step that matters
Slowly add the sweet oil while stirring. Oil added too quickly to the egg yolk and mustard can fail to emulsify and split. Adding it slowly in a thin stream lets the yolk's lecithin bind the droplets, producing a thick, stable sauce.
Swap the leek
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mustard, pepper, egg, vinegar, cucumber, capers, parsley):
- Shallotfits better
- Horseradishfits better
- Lettucefits better
- Leekthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against mustard, pepper, egg, vinegar, cucumber, capers, parsley. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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