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Tomato Catsup

A tomato sauce made by boiling tomatoes with spices, then straining and bottling.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Tomato Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no cooking times; the times in the steps were added in transcription, so check for doneness rather than trusting the clock.

Prepare the tomatoes

  1. Chop the tomatoes and mix with salt.

  2. Let them stand for 24 hours.

Cook and strain

  1. Boil the tomatoes with black pepper, cloves, allspice, red pepper, and onion until reduced to pulp.

  2. Pour the mixture into an earthen pan to cool.

  3. Once cool, strain through a coarse sieve and bottle for use.

  4. Combine the coarser parts with spices in a jar and cover with vinegar.

  5. Seal bottles with paper dipped in egg white to exclude air.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Tomato + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,923 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Tomato + oniontop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,633 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ripe tomatoes
Provide the main body, pulp and tangy flavour of the ketchup.
Black pepper
Adds sharp, warm pungency that balances the tomato's sweetness.
Cloves
Contribute warm, aromatic spice notes that carry the flavour of the sauce.
Allspice
Adds a blended warm aroma that rounds out the spiced flavour.
Onion or shallot
Adds savoury depth and aroma as it cooks down into the pulp.

The step that matters

Boil the tomatoes until reduced to pulp. Long boiling evaporates water and breaks down the tomato's cell walls, so the sauce thickens and the spices infuse evenly. Stopping early leaves it thin and watery.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (tomato, pepper, clove, allspice, vinegar):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Mustardfits better
  3. Carrotfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against tomato, pepper, clove, allspice, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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