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Turtle Soup

A stew of ham, veal, and turtle flesh thickened with flour and flavored with herbs and onion.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Marjoram and thyme match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,225 recipes. Both carry terpineol, which smells pine, woody. The science ↓

Turtle Soup

Ingredients

Directions

Cook the meat

  1. In a large stewpan, layer the ham, veal, and turtle flesh.

  2. Moisten with the water used to boil the turtle shell and sweat thoroughly.

  3. Check if the meat is done by inserting a knife; if no blood comes out, moisten again with the boiling liquor.

  4. Add the bunch of herbs and the studded onion, and let it cook until done.

  5. Drain the members and set aside for later.

  6. Once the meat is done, drain it onto a dish.

Make the sauce

  1. Make a thin white thickening with flour over a slow fire until it has a good color.

  2. Moisten the flour with the drained liquor and bring the sauce to a boil.

  3. Skim off any scum and fat from the surface of the sauce.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Marjoram + thymetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,225 recipes

    Shared aroma: terpineol (pine, woody).

  2. Thyme + winter savorytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together780 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Marjoram + winter savorytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together455 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Basil + marjoramtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together688 recipes

    Shared aroma: terpineol (pine, woody).

  5. Thyme + parsleytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,057 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ham
Adds savory meaty flavor to the broth as it cooks slowly.
Veal knuckles
Release gelatin and body into the liquid, giving the soup a richer mouthfeel.
Turtle flesh
Forms the main meat of the soup, becoming tender through slow moist cooking.
Flour
Thickens the sauce as its starch swells when cooked in liquid.
Onion
Contributes aromatic sweetness and depth to the cooking liquor.

The step that matters

Skim off scum and fat. Scum and fat rise to the surface during simmering and can make the sauce greasy and cloudy, so skimming keeps it clean and clear.

Swap the basil

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (ham, veal, marjoram, lemon, thyme, winter savory, parsley):

  1. Sagefits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Rosemaryfits about as well
  4. Basilthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against ham, veal, marjoram, lemon, thyme, winter savory, parsley. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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