Chicken with Lemon Mustard Sauce

Season the chicken with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Rinse the chicken pieces under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Make 1 or 2 deep slashes to the bone in each piece, then place in a non-reactive baking dish large enough to hold the pieces in a single layer. Set aside while you prepare the spice paste.

Combine the garlic, chiles, salt, and pepper in a mortar and pound to a paste with the pestle, then work in the oil; or combine the oil with the other ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. Using your fingers, stuff half the spice paste into the slashes in each piece of chicken, then spread the remainder over the skin. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator for 2 to 12 hours (the longer the better).

For a milder marinade and sauce, seed the hot chilies.

Preheat the grill using the two-tiered method: spread one third of the coals in a single layer over one side of the grill, the other two thirds in a double layer on the other side, leaving a small portion of the grill free of coals. This arrangement gives a super hot heat source for searing, a moderately hot heat source for cooking, and a warm spot for keeping cooked foods warm.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Select a heavy non-reactive saucepan or flameproof casserole large enough to hold the chicken and combine the onion, mustard, oil, lemon juice, olives, bay leaf, chile, and salt and pepper. Stir well to mix and bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and the sauce is thick and creamy and the oil has started to separate out, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Discard the bay leaf and chile. Set the sauce aside, covered.

When ready to cook the chicken, oil the grill grate. Arrange the chicken pieces, skin side down, on the grate over the hotter section of the grill.

Cook until the skin starts to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Move the pieces to the cooler section of the grill and continue grilling until the skin is more thoroughly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Move pieces away from flare ups. Turn the pieces and move them back to the hotter section of the grill. Brown the second side well, 3 to 5 minutes, then move the pieces back to the cooler side to finish cooking. The total cooking time will be 16 to 24 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to the saucepan with the sauce and bring to a simmer over low heat, spooning the sauce over the chicken to coat. Cover and cook until the chicken is well flavored by the sauce, 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the chicken pieces to serving plates or a platter, spoon the sauce over, and serve.