Bánh Chưng

Soak the rice the evening before by placing it in a large bowl and covering it with water until it sits about two inches deep.

Separately, submerge the bamboo leaves in a large roasting pan of water, using a plate as a weight to keep them completely underwater.

In the morning, drain the rice in a strainer, then return it to the bowl.

Scatter the salt over the rice and mix thoroughly by hand to season evenly.

Fold each bamboo leaf lengthwise along its spine with the matte side facing out, then fold it crosswise.

Trim the leaves with scissors so they measure 4¾ inches from the middle fold, giving a total length of 9½ inches when opened.

Rinse the trimmed leaves and set them aside with the banana leaves.

Slice the pork into pieces about 3 by 2 inches and ½ inch thick.

If using pork leg, make sure each slice includes a bit of skin and fat.

Combine the pork with the fish sauce and pepper, toss to coat, and marinate for half an hour.

To cook the pork, warm the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.

Arrange the meat in an even layer, pour in any remaining marinade, and sear about two minutes per side until just done.

Move the pork to a plate and separate it into four even servings.

Fill a large 12-quart pot halfway with water and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat.

Reduce the heat and cover the pot to keep the water hot until needed.

Lay a 12-by-18-inch sheet of heavy-duty foil horizontally on the counter and center the 5-inch square mold on top.

Line the mold's frame with four bamboo leaves, folding each into a box corner and fitting it into the corners, overlapping them until the mold is framed.

Line the interior of the mold with banana leaves, placing them in alternating directions so they overlap at the base and cover all four sides, then press them into the corners.

Pour 1 cup of rice into the mold and press it toward the sides.

Add ½ cup of lightly packed mung beans to the middle and place a serving of pork on top.

If the meat is from the leg, distribute the fat and skin evenly in the center.

Layer another ½ cup of mung beans over the pork, then top with a final cup of rice and press firmly toward the edges and corners.

Fold the side banana leaf flaps inward, then the far side, then the flap closest to you.

Press firmly with your palm to compress the filling and level the surface.

Hold the cake in place, slide the mold up and off, and rest the cake on your forearm.

Fold the top foil flap down and the bottom flap up over the cake, then fold the foil sides inward to make a tidy square.

Tap the cake gently on the counter to settle the contents, then repeat the process for the other three cakes.

Tie each cake with kitchen string loosely enough to allow the rice to expand, without indenting the foil.

Bring the pot of water back to a boil and add the cakes, weighing them down with an empty saucepan to prevent floating.

Boil uncovered for 7 hours, replenishing the pot with boiling water from a kettle to maintain the water level.

Rotate the cakes every 2 hours for even cooking.

Once the cakes stop floating, typically around the halfway mark, remove the weighted saucepan and continue boiling.

Transfer the cakes to a baking sheet with tongs, placing the most uniform side face down.

Top with a second baking sheet, weight each cake with a 14- to 15-ounce food can, and let them press and cool for at least 1 to 2 hours.

The next morning, remove the foil, clean away loose rice, and wrap each cake tightly in plastic wrap.

Tie with colorful ribbons if desired (red is traditional for luck).

To serve soft, use unflavored dental floss or linen string to slice the cake into eight wedges, removing the wrap and bamboo leaves but keeping the banana leaves underneath.

To pan-fry, cut the cake into quarters, then slice each quarter into ½-inch pieces.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat, add half the slices, and cook for 6 minutes until soft.

Mash the pieces into a single pancake with a spatula and fry for another 5–6 minutes until the bottom is golden and crisp.

Flip the pancake and cook the other side over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes.

Serve hot, cut into wedges, with sugar for dipping, and repeat for the second batch.