Eggs and Macaroni

Ingredients

• two quarts of water to a dozen eggs
• one ounce of butter
• two ounces of butter in the pan
• five ounces powdered sugar
• three ounces of butter
• three tablespoons cream
• half teaspoon mustard
• quarter teaspoon cayenne
• four ounces grated cheese
• a cup of sweet milk
• a tablespoon of butter
• a teaspoon of flour
• one yourself
• 24 ounces
• seven miruites more they will be done
• three eggs
• ten min- utes
• two lids hinged at either end closely covered
• five eggs in a thin long-handled frying-pan very hot
• one side
• eight eggs
• three eggs make a good sized omelet
• one very large one
• six eggs
• four persons
• six well- beaten eggs
• eight eggs into a well buttered dish
• one large onion
• lemon rind
• mustard
• salt
• pepper
• cayenne

Directions

1. Eggs — Note — The nutritive qualities of eggs are much greater than that of meat; those of different birds vary, however, in this respect. Those of the domestic hen are most esteemed and used; those of the turkey are nearly as mild as those of the hen, and that of the goose is larger, but about as preferable for most culinary purposes. Duck eggs have a richer flavor, but not so desirable to be eaten alone, although preferred by some, as either of the above. They are, however, as good for all purposes of cookery, and for puddings or custards are superior to any; when boiled they require less time than for those of the hen. The eggs of nearly all game birds are edible, and partake somewhat of the bird, and are generally colored or mottled. Those of the sea-fowl have a strong, fishy flavor and are little esteemed, while those of the plover, thrush, pheasant, etc., are highly so. The eggs of the turtle, consisting of yelk only, without shell, are very numerous, and are quite delicious.

2. The delicate nature of the egg render them acceptable to the weak stomachs of invalids, and they are quite nourishing when admissible, but will not agree with all. The yelk alone is the better for invalids, and will be frequently relished when the wh;te would be rejected. Poaching is the lightest way of cooking eggs, and is simply a raw egg broken for a minute into hot water, being careful not to break the yelk. Eggs are also used in nutritive beverages, beaten up raw; the yelks alone are often used for this purpose.

3. To Select — Eggs are more wholesome soon after being laid, and the sooner they are used the better. There is probably nothing more vexatious to the housekeeper than for eggs to turn out addled in the act of using, for which reason care should be used in their selec- tion. Do not rely upon the specious placard or assertion of tradesmen that their eggs are " strictly fresh" but examine each one yourself, and the result will repay the trouble. There are several methods to ascer- tain their state. First place the large end against the tongue; if slightly warm it is sound; or look through it before the sun or a light in a dark- ened room; if it looks clear and the yelk can be readily seen it is good, but if a dark spot appears it is the contrary. This last method is termed "candleing" by dealers; or they may be tested by placing in water sufficient to cover; those that lie flat are sound, but those that stand on end are unsound. When an egg emits a sound when shaken it is utterly decayed, and, of course, should be rejected. Eggs that are purchased and cannot be entirely relied upon should be broken separately into a cup; the stale egg will not then waste others. Eggs vary so much in size that they properly should be sold by weight; the average of full- sized, plump hen's eggs should be 22^ ounces per dozen, and those of the larger variety of hen's 24 ounces.

4. To Keep -Eggs — Any method which will effectually exclude the air from the inside of the shell will preserve eggs for a certain

5. time, and the following are among the best, some of the results of long experience by egg packers or dealers. Eggs for packing should not be more than one day laid, and packed in fine, clear weather, the best sea- son being from April to September.

6. An old-time way of packing was to immerse them in lime water and set them away in a cool cellar; this, although usually successful for some weeks, often destroyed the eggs by keeping them in it too long, or the preservative was apt to be made too strong, and the shells were soon eaten; it also to some extent discolored the shell. A better manner and quite simple is to pack them in salt in a stone jar; a layer of salt two inches thick first, and alternate layers of eggs and salt to fill the jar, the eggs standing on the larger end, a thick layer of salt to cover the top; put on the stone cover and set in a cool, but not in a place where they may freeze in winter. Or put the eggs into a cabbage net or wire basket, twenty at a time, and hold them in boiling water for twenty seconds; no longer; repeat until all are boiled, and pack away in sawdust; they will keep for two or three months quite good enough for any culinary pur- poses. Or dissolve gum arabic (a cheap quality will do) to consistency of thin mucilage, and apply to each egg with a brush; pack them in powdered charcoal and place in a cool, dark place; wash when required for use.

7. 391. Boiled Eggs— There is a very general mistake about boiling eggs. To be healthful and most digestible, the eggs should be cooked evenly, the white and yelk alike; in the rapid boiling by the usual rule of three to four minutes for soft, or five minutes for medium, the white becomes toughened before the yelk is scarcely cooked. To remedy this and render them not only more palatable and nutritious, and less indigestible, boil them in a vessel having a tight fitting cover (a common tin pail will answer admirably), put in the eggs and pour boiling water upon them, about two quarts of water to a dozen eggs; cover tight and set off the stove; in about seven minutes remove the cover, turn the eggs, replace the cover; in six or seven miruites more they will be done, if but two or three eggs; if more, in about ten min- utes. Formerly, an egg boiler was a regular appurtenance of the break- fast table — an oval-shaped can six inches high, with capacity for a dozen eggs, which were placed on a movable rack like a castor, having large holes in which to set each egg; two lids hinged at either end closely covered it. Raw eggs were placed on the table with boiling water, and the duty of boiling them devolved upon the lady or daughter of the house. This is the nearest approach to the production of properly boiled eggs, as above given, and although long gone into disuse, it is one of the things to be regretted. It is, however, still in vogue in Eng- land— where it originated — in old families. By the ordinary methods, eggs boil soft in three minutes, medium in four, hard in five to six, and very hard, for garnishes or sandwiches, in ten to fifteen, provided the water is kept boiling from the time they

8. 392. Omelets— The variety of omelets made, especially by the French, who originated them, is very numerous. The filling, whatever it may be, is put in when it is folded or turned, and the manner of making a plain omelefwill serve as to the material process for all. Among the fillings used are fine herbs {Omelette aux Fine Herbs), selecting any favored; any kind of preserves, jelly or jam [Omelette aux Comfiture), chopped boiled ham or bacon, cold veal minced; sweetened or flavored with vanilla, lemon extract or the yellow, not the inner rind {Omelette Souffle), minced onion, shallot or grated cheese; oysters are also used, by first scalding them in their liquor, removing the beards, and cut into small pieces. With the exception of the Souffle they are all made alike.

9. 393. Plain Omelet — In compounding the omelet it is optional whether to beat the whole egg or to beat the whites and yelks separately, or to add flour and milk or milk alone; but if desired soft, milk should be used; when separated do not beat the yelk too much or they will be too thin; beat the white to a stiff froth and add lastly; melt about one ounce of butter for four or five eggs in a thin long-handled frying-pan very hot, next to burning; pour in the egg, which, if the pan is properly heated, will at once bubble up; break the bubbles, shake the pan con- tinually, and slip a knife under frequently to prevent burning; and when the bottom is hard enough to hold together and the top partly cooked loosen up one side and turn it over the other, tipping up the pan at the same time on the side from which it is turned; the time to add any filling mentioned above is just before it is turned; place it on the egg in the cavity of the tipped pan and fold the other side over it; loosen the omelet free from the pan, and if desired browned on both sides, skillfully flap it over, let it brown a moment and slip it off the pan to a hot platter.

10. 394. Plain Omelet — Having prepared the eggs as desired in quantity and ingredients, of egg, milk or flour, put about two ounces of butter in the pan (sufficient for eight eggs) and shake it about quickly to have it melt evenly, and cover the whole inside of the pan; as soon as very hot pour in the prepared egg, which stir and move about to cause it to cook as evenly as possible; should some part adhere to the pan raise it there with a knife, and adding a little butter, allow it to run under; it must be done quickly; when cooked soft or hard, to taste, run the knife under one-half the omelet nearest the handle, and turn that part over the other so as to nearly or quite double it; then, having an oval dish or small platter in the left hand, hold the pan with the right, the thumb lying along the handle instead of the fingers; incline the dish by raising the left side; place the front edge of the pan (opposite handle) on the edge of the dish, turn it upside down, and the omelet is dished, bottom or browned side up, and sightly. — Prof. Blot.

11. Three eggs make a good sized omelet for one or two; for more persons it is better to make several small ones than one very large one; omelets are generally preferred soft inside; they should be made quick, in three to five minutes.

12. 395. Omelet Souffle — Separate the yelks from the whites of six eggs; add to the former five ounces powdered sugar and a table- spoon of flour (rice flour is best), and flavor with vanilla, orange flower water or lemon rind; stir all well together; whip the whites of the eggs and mix them lightly with the batter; put in a sauce-pan three ounces of butter, melt it over a bright but gentle fire, and when the omelet is set turn the edges over to make it of oval shape, and turn it off as directed above on to a granite or porcelain pie dish previously well buttered; place it in the oven and bake twelve to fifteen minutes; sprinkle finely powdered sugar over it and serve immediately; is suffi- cient for three or four persons.

13. 396. Scrambled Eggs — Heat a cup of sweet milk, then rub a tablespoon of butter with a teaspoon of flour, and stir into the boiling milk. Into this put six well- beaten eggs and stir until thick.

14. 397. Baked Eggs — Break eight eggs into a well buttered dish, put in pepper and salt, bits of butter and three tablespoons cream; set it in the oven, bake twenty minutes and serve hot.

15. 398. Macaroni — Originally only of Italian production, is now extensively manufactured and used in this country. It is produced from slightly-moistened wheat flour, pressed into hollow tubes by great force. The harder the wheat from which the flour is made the better. The best is of a yellowish color, swells to about four times its original bulk, and does not break in cooking.

16. 399. Macaroni a la Riccadonna — Put a two-pound can of tomatoes in a sauce-pan and let simmer three to four hours, until they become quite thick and jelly-like; in the meantime take half a pound salt pork and one large onion, both cut into small pieces, and fry to a nice brown, taking care not to burn; pour them into the tomatoes, and let the whole simmer together; cover the macaroni with boiling water and boil for twenty-five minutes; drain, put on a platter, and pour over it the tomato sauce and put a generous sprinkling of grated cheese over the whole.

17. 400. Macaroni — Boil the macaroni in water until tender, which will be about twenty minutes; mix a dessertspoon of flour with a tablespoon butter; add half a cup milk, half teaspoon mustard, the same of salt and pepper, a quarter teaspoon cayenne, and four ounces grated cheese; stir all together and boil ten minutes; drain the water from the macaroni and pour over it the dressing; boil up once and serve hot.

18. P. J. PROBECK,

19. No. 62 h W. Clark St.,

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

Counts 13 of 14 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.