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Dessert

Sally Lunn

A sweet batter cake made with flour, lard, butter, sugar, cream of tartar, soda, eggs, and sweet milk.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 8% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 41,516 recipes. Both carry delta-dodecalactone, which smells sweet, creamy. The science ↓

Sally Lunn

Ingredients

Directions

Make the batter

  1. Combine two pints flour, one tablespoon lard, one tablespoon butter, one tablespoon sugar, two teaspoons cream of tartar, one teaspoon soda, and three beaten eggs; mix with sweet milk to make a batter as thick as for batter-cakes.

  2. Leave out sugar if desired.

Bake

  1. When ready to bake, dissolve the soda and cream of tartar in a little sweet milk and add to the batter.

  2. Let the batter stand five or ten minutes.

  3. Bake quickly.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

850Calories
20 gProtein
36 gFat
109 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 6 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Lard1 tbsp (12.8g)115
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Vehling, Joseph Dommers, 1879-1950. fmo. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  2. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  5. Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Flour
Forms the structure of the bread once the batter sets in the oven.
Eggs
Add structure and richness, helping the bread hold its rise and crumb.
Cream of tartar
Acidic component that reacts with soda to produce gas for rising.
Soda (in the method)
Base that reacts with the acid to release carbon dioxide, leavening the batter.
Lard
Adds fat, tenderising the crumb and softening the texture.

The step that matters

Add the dissolved soda and cream of tartar, then bake quickly. The soda and cream of tartar react as soon as they are combined and release gas. Baking promptly after adding them keeps that gas in the batter, so the bread rises well rather than going flat.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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