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Dessert

Biscuits Tortoni

A frozen custard dessert made with eggs, powdered sugar, kirschwasser, maraschino, vanilla, and whipped cream, served in paper cases and topped with macaroons.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and vanilla are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 8% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes. Both carry beta-damascenone, which smells apple, rose. The science ↓

Biscuits Tortoni

Ingredients

Directions

Make the custard base

  1. Beat the yolks of six eggs with a half cup of powdered sugar.

  2. When very light add four tablespoonfuls of maraschino and one tablespoonful of kirschwasser.

  3. Stand in a basin of hot water over the fire and beat constantly for five minutes. Be careful not to curdle the eggs.

  4. Take from the fire, stand in a basin of ice water and beat until cold.

Finish and fill

  1. Stir in carefully one pint of whipped cream and one teaspoonful of vanilla.

  2. Fill paper cases with the mixture and sprinkle the top with grated and sifted macaroons.

Freeze

  1. Put in a freezer in layers with letter paper between.

  2. Take out dasher, but leave on cover and handle to keep straight. Pack with salt and ice, cork in the lid, cover with a piece of carpet and stand aside.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

190Calories
7 gProtein
11 gFat
14 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 4 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Vanilla1 tsp extract (4ml)12

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Gibson, Marietta Fauntleroy Hollyday, "Mrs. C. H. Gibson.". Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  2. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Cream + vanillatop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together12,301 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonanone (fruity, floral).

  4. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Egg + vanillatop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together27,347 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Yolks are beaten into a light foam that gives the frozen dessert its structure and richness.
Powdered sugar
Sweetens the egg yolks and helps them whip into a stable, light foam.
Whipped cream
Adds fat and air, giving the frozen mixture a light, creamy texture.
Maraschino (in the method)
Adds sweetness and a distinct cherry-like aroma to the mixture.

The step that matters

Heating the eggs over hot water. Egg yolks thicken gently as they warm, but if they get too hot they scramble and curdle. Beat constantly over moderate heat so the custard stays smooth and light.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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