AND THE MANY WAYS OF COOKING THEM

Under the head of shell-fish are classed clams, crabs, lobsters, turtles and oysters. In choosing the latter, select those with firmly closed shells, else the oysters are not fresh. If fresh, the shell is firmly closed ; when the shells of oysters are opened, they are dead and unfit for food. The small-shelled oysters, the Pyfleet, Colchester and Milford, are the finest in flavor. Larger kinds, called rock oysters, are generally con- sidered only fit for stewing and sauces, though some persons prefer them to any other.

Always select the best of oysters, for it is impossible for even the best of cooks to make a first-rate dish out of even second-rate materials. It is just as impossible to make a first-class stew out of inferior oysters as it is to make a first-class fry. Stewing will, of course, reduce the size of all oysters more than frying ; but those which are used in stews should be as large originally as those which are fried. Equally for stews as for fries, select only those real prime oysters which are large,

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fresh and firm-fleshed, and which, though they will be made smaller by stewing, still remain plump and solid. More gratification and more nourishment will be obtained from three or four of the very best quality large oysters than from thirty or forty of the smaller and inferior quality which is generally served.

To pan oysters in their own juice, select a dozen of the freshest, largest and most highly flavored oysters, such as you would for a fry ; have a small pan about one inch deep with a handle to it ; open into this pan your dozen oysters, also the juice of the same and the juice of a dozen others ; in this dish you are to put no water and no milk, only oyster juice, pure and simple ; add one ounce best butter, a little of the best (for there are grades and adulteration even here) of black pepper and a pinch of salt ; sprinkle on the top a small quantity of cracker dust ; place on a quick fire ; when the oysters begin to swell they are done ; to cook to this stage will require about five minutes ; do not turn, out these oysters into another dish, but dish directly from the pan and while they are steaming hot.

A celebrated cook has discovered a way to have oyster flavor all the year round. Take fresh, large, plump oysters, beard them and place them in a vessel over the fire for a few moments in order to extract the juice, then put them to cool, and chop them very fine with powdered biscuit, mace, and finely minced lemon-peel ; pound them until they become a paste ; make them up into thin cakes, place them on a sheet of paper in a slow oven and let them bake until they become quite hard ; pound them directly into powder, and place the powder in a dry tin box, well covered ; keep in a dry place, and it will be very much appreciated when the true oyster flavor is imparted to fish, sauces and dishes. This makes a delicious sauce for fresh cod.

The ways of preparing oysters are many, but this method is not widely known : Take two dozen oysters and throw them in a large deep dish ; then take a small bunch of parsley, chopped fine, a little lemon- rind grated, half a nutmeg grated, and the crumbs of a stale French roll, also grated ; let the latter be well incorporated, adding some cavenne. Have in readiness the yolks of three fresh eggs beaten up into a foam ; dip each oyster separately into the eggs and roll them into the bread crumbs until they are all covered with a good coat. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in the oven, till it is melted, arrange the oysters in the pan, and turn them continually until they assume a per- fect brown and crusty appearance. When fully cooked, serve them with some celery, salt and thin slices of Graham bread and butter,