MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN

Description. — There can be little doubt that maize is of American origin. The discoverers of the new world found it cultivated by the aborigines, and from the fact that corn was the generic term then largely used to designate grain (in old English, "corn" means grain), they named it "Indian corn." Since that time it has been carried to nearly every part of the globe, and probably it is more extensively used than any other one of the cereals, with the exception of rice. This is undoubt- edly due to the fact that it is the most prolific of the grains, and is adapted to the widest range of climate.

Maize was the chief food of the slaves of Brazil, as it used to be of those in our own Southern States, and is very largely consumed in Mexico and Peru. It was used very little in Europe until the Irish famine in 1847 ; since then, it has be- come a staple food with the poorer classes.

The varieties of corn are almost too numerous to be counted. For general purposes, however, they may be classified as field corn, sweet corn, and pop corn.

Corn is characterized by an excess of fatty matter, con- taining upwards of three times the amount of that element to be found in wheat. Corn requires stronger powers of digestion than wheat, and is unsuited to some stomachs.

The skin of the corn kernel is thin, and when subjected to milling processes, is included in the grinding. When well ground, it can be digested, with the exception of the siliceous coating.

I02 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN.

Sweet corn and some of the field varieties, form a nutritious and favorite food while green. The mature grain is used in many forms. The whole grain, hulled, is an agreeable food. Hulled, broken, or split to various degrees of fineness, it is known according to the size to which the grain has been re- duced as hominy, fine hominy, or grits ; or, if finer still, as samp. Subjected to a process of still finer trituration, it forms meal. Cornstarch consists of the farinaceous portions of the grain.

On account of the large proportion of fatty matter con- tained in maize, it acquires, if kept for some time, an unpleas- ant, rancid taste, occasioned by the usual change which takes place in fat when exposed to the atmosphere.

The new process granular meal, which is prepared from corn dried for a long period before grinding, becomes rank less quickly than that ground, in the old way.

Maize meal is very largely consumed in the form of mush or porridge. This, in Ireland, is termed " stirabout ; " in Italy it is called "polenta;" and in British Honduras it is known as " corn lob."

General Suggestions for Cooking — Most of the various preparations from maize require prolonged cooking to render them wholesome ; this is equally true respecting mushes pre- pared from samp or meal, a dish which unfortunately some cook in bygone days saw fit to term " hasty pudding." Un- thinking people since, supposing it to have been so named because of the little time required to cook it, have commonly prepared it in fifteen or twenty minutes, whereas from one to two hours, or even longer, are necessary to cook it properly. Hulled corn, hominy, and grits, all require prolonged cooking. The time for cooking these preparations may be somewhat lessened if they are previously soaked over night. They should, however, be cooked in the same water in which they are soaked.

THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. IO3

Corn Meal Mush. — Stir together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoon- ful of flour, and one pint of cold milk. Turn this slowly, stirring well meanwhile, into one quart of boiling water, which should not cease to boil during the introduction of the batter. Cook three or four hours. If milk is not obtainable, water alone may be used, in which case two tablespoon- fuls of flour will be needed. Cook in a double boiler.

Corn Meal Mush with Fruit. — Mush prepared in the above manner may have some well-steamed raisins or chopped figs added to it just be- fore serving.

Corn Meal Cubes. — Left-over corn meal mush may be made into an appetizing dish by first slicing into rather thick slices, then cutting into cubes about one inch square. Put the cubes into a tureen and turn over them a quantity of hot milk or cream. Cover the dish, let them stand until thoroughly heated through, then serve.

Browned Mush. — Slice cold corn meal mush rather thin, brush each slice with thick, sweet cream, and brown in a moderate oven until well heated through.

Samp. — Use one part of samp to four and one half parts of boiling water. It is the best plan to reserve enough of the water to moisten the samp before adding it to the boiling water, as it is much less likely to cook in lumps. Boil rapidly, stirring continuously, until the mush has well set, then slowly for from two to three hours.

Cerealine Flakes. — Into one measure of boiling liquid stir an equal measure of cerealine flakes, and cook in a double boiler from one half to three fourths of an hour.

Hulled Corn. — To Htdl the Com, — Put enough wood ashes into a large kettle to half fill it ; then nearly fill with hot water, and boil ten minutes. Drain off the water from the ashes, turn it into a kettle, and pour in four quarts of clean, shelled field corn, white varieties preferred. Boil till the hulls rub off. Skim the corn out of the lye water, and put it into a tub of fresh cold water. To remove the hulls, scrub the corn well with a new stiff brush broom kept for the purpose, changing the water often. Put through half a dozen or more waters, and then take the corn out by handfuls, rubbing each well between the hands to loosen the re- maining hulls, and drop again into clear water. Pick out all hulls. Cleanse the corn through several more waters if it is to be dried and kept before using. Well hulled corn is found in the markets.

To Cook. — If it is to be cooked at once, it should be parboiled in clear water twice, and then put into new water and cooked till tender. It

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should be nearly or quite dry when done. It may be served with milk or cream.

Coarse Homiuy. — For coarse hominy use four parts of water or milk and water to one of grain. It is best steamed or cooked in a double boiler, though it may be boiled in a kettle over a slow fire. The only objection to this method is the need of frequent stirring to prevent sticking, which breaks and mashes the hominy. From four to five hours' slow cooking will be necessary, unless the grain has been previously soaked ; then about one hour less will be required.

Fiue Homiuy or Grits. — This preparation is cooked in the same man- ner as the foregoing, using three and one half or four parts of water to one of the grain. Four or five hours will be necessary for cooking the un- soaked grits.

Popped Corn. — The small, translucent varieties of maize known as "pop corn," possess the property, when gently roasted, of bursting open, or turning inside out, a process which is owing to the following facts : Corn contains an excess of fatty matter. By proper means this fat can be separated from the grain, and it is then a thick, pale oil. When oils are heated sufficiently in a vessel closed from the air, they are turned into gas, which occupies many times the bulk of the oil. When pop corn is gradually heated, and made so hot that the oil inside of the kernel turns to gas, being unable to escape through the hull of the kernel, the pressure finally becomes strong enough to burst the grain, and the explosion is so violent as to shatter it in a most curious manner.

Popped corn forms an excellent food, the starch of the grain being well cooked. It should, however, be eaten in connection with other food at mealtime, and not as a delicacy between meals. Ground pop corn is considered a delectable dish eaten with milk or cream ; it also forms the base of several excellent puddings.

To pop the corn, shell and place in a wire "popper" over a bed of bright coals, or on the top of a hot stove; stir or shake continuously, so that each kernel may be subjected to the same degree of heat on all sides, until it begins to burst open. If a popper is not attainable, a common iron skillet covered tightl)', and very lightly oiled on the bottom, may be used for the purpose. The corn must be very dry to begin with, and if good, nearly eveiy kernel will pop open nicely. It should be used within twentj^-four hours after popping.

THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 10$

Description. — Macaroni is a product of wheat prepared from a hard, clean, giutcnous grain. The grain is ground into a meal called semolina, from which the bran is excluded. This is made into a pasty dough by mixing with hot water in the pro- portion of two thirds semolina to one third water. The dough after being thoroughly mixed is put into a shallow vat and kneaded and rolled by machinery. When well rolled, it is made to assume various shapes by being forced by a powerful plunger through the perforated head of strong steel or iron cylinders arranged above a fire, so that the dough is partially baked as it issues from the holes. It is afterwards hung over rods or laid upon frames covered with cloth, and dried. It is called by different names according to its shape. If in the shape of large, hollow cylinders, it is macaroni ; if smaller in diameter, it is spaghetti; if fine, vermicelli ; if the paste is cut into fancy patterns, it is termed pasta d' Italia.

Macaroni was formerly made only in Italy, but at present is manufactured to a considerable extent in the United States. The product, however, is in general greatly inferior to that im- ported from Italy, owing to the difference in the character of the wheat from which it is made, the Italian macaroni being- produced from a hard, semi-translucent wheat, rich in nitroge- nous elements, and which is only grown successfully in a hot climate. Like all cereal foods, macaroni should be kept in a perfectly dry storeroom.

To Select Macaroni. — Good macaroni will keep in good condition for years. It is rough, elastic, and hard ; while the inferior article is smooth, soft, breaks easily, becomes moldy with keeping. Inferior macaroni contains a large percentage of starch, and but a small amount of gluten. When put into hot water, it assumes a white, pasty appearance, and splits in cooking. Good macaroni when put into hot water absorbs a portion of the water, swells to nearly double its size, but per- fectly retains its shape. Inferior macaroni is usually sold a few cents cheaper per pound than the genuine article. It contains

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a much smaller amount of gluten. The best quality of any shape one pleases can be bought in most markets for ten or fifteen cents a pound.

To Prepare and Cook Macaroni. — Do not wash maca- roni. If dusty, wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Break into pieces of convenient size. Always put to cook in boiling liquid, tak- ing care to have plenty of water in the saucepan (as it absorbs a large quantity), and cook until tender. The length of time required may vary from twenty minutes, if fresh, to one hour if stale. When tender, turn into a colander and drain, and pour cold water through it to prevent the tubes from sticking together. The fluid used for cooking may be water, milk, or a mixture of both ; also soup stock, tomato juice, or any pre- ferred liquid.

Macaroni serves as an important adjunct in the making of various soups, and also forms the basis of other palatable dishes.

Home-Made Macaroni. — To four cupfuls of flour, add one egg well beaten, and enough water to make a dough that can be rolled. Roll thin on a bread board and cut in strips. Dry in the sun. The best arrange- ment for this purpose is a wooden frame to which a square of cheese- cloth has been tightly tacked, upon which the macaroni may be laid in such a way as not to touch, and afterwards covered with cheese-cloth to keep off the dust during^ the drying.

Boiled Macaroni. — Break sticks of macaroni into pieces about an inch in length, sufficient to fill a large cup ; put it into boiling water and cook until tender. When done, drain thoroughly, then add a pint of milk, part cream if it can be afforded, a little salt and one well-beaten egg ; stir over the fire until it thickens, and serve hot.

Macaroni "with Ci'cani Sauce. — Cook the macaroni as directed in the preceding, and serve with a cream sauce prepared by heating a scant pint of rich milk to boiling, in a double boiler. When boiling, add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in a little milk and one fourth tea- spoonful of salt. If desired, the sauce may be flavored by steeping in the milk before thickening for ten or fifteen minutes, a slice of onion or a few bits of celery, and then removing with a fork.

Macaroni witli Tomato Sauce. — Break a dozen sticks of macaroni into two-inch lengths, and drop into boiling milk and water, equal parts. Let

A JAPANESE DINNER