Science in the Kitchen

Ingredients

• ten quarts of water
• four quarts of milk one cupful of lemon juice
• half cupful of boiling water
• one cupful of thin cream
• a pint of salt in ten quarts of water
• an ounce of salt to the pound being the usual allowance
• a square of clean cheese cloth
• four thicknesses of perfect!}' clean cheese cloth
• one churn
• two things
• three fourths of an ounce of salt to the pound being the usual allowance
• half full of thick sweet cream
• one end of the bottle in each hand shake it vigorously back
• one egg
• two level tablespoon- fuls of flour
• lemon juice
• salt

Directions

1. a sort of curd was separated. The Oriental method of churn- ing was b}- putting- the milk into a goat-skin and swinging and shaking the bag until the butter came, as illustrated in the accompan}-ing cut.

2. An article still sold as butter in Athens is made b}- boiling the milk of goats, allowing it to sour, and then churning in a goat-skin. The result is a thick, -white, foamy substance ap- pearing more like cream than butter. Butter -Making". — The manufacture of good butter is de- pendent upon good cows and the care given them, as well as most careful treatment of the milk and c r e a m. The milk to be used for butter making, as indeed for all purposes, should be most c a r e f u 1 1 }" strained through a wire strainer co\-- ered with three or four thicknesses of perfect!}' clean cheese cloth.

3. The fol lo win g points given by an experienced dairyman will be found \\orth}' of consideration b}- all who have to do with the manufacture of this article : —

4. "Milk is almost as sensitive to atmospheric changes as mer- cury itself. It is a question among many as to what depth milk should be set to get the most cream. It does not make so much difference as to the depth as it does the protection of

5. Oriental Butter-Makins

6. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 375

7. the milk from acid or souring. As soon as the milk begins to sour, the cream ceases to rise.

8. "With a clear, dry atmosphere the cream will rise clean in the milk ; but in that condition of the atmosphere which readily sours the milk, the cream will not rise clean, but seems to hang in the milk, and this even when the milk is protected by being set in water.

9. " The benefit of setting milk in cold water is that the water protects the milk from becoming acid until the cream has time to rise. For cream to rise readily on milk set in cold water, the atmosphere in the room should be warmer than the water- As much cream will rise on milk set in cold water in one hour as on milk not set in water in twenty-four hours. The milk should be skimmed while sweet, and the cream thoroughly stirred at each skimming.

10. " Cream skimmed from different milkings, if churned at the same time in one churn, should be mixed eight to ten hours before churning ; then the cream will all come alike.

11. " The keeping qualities of butter depend principally upon two things : First, the buttermilk must be all gotten out ; and secondly, the grain of the butter should be kept as perfect as possible. Butter should not be allowed to be churned after it has fairly come, and should not be gathered compactly in the churn in taking out, but the buttermilk should be drained from the butter in the churn, through a hair sieve, letting the butter remain in the churn. Then take water and turn it upon the butter with sufficient force to pass through the butter, and in sufficient cjuantity to rinse the buttermilk all out of the butter. With this process of washing the butter the grain is not in- jured or mashed, and is thus far kept perfect. And in working in the salt the ladle or roll or worker, whatever it is, should never be allowed to slip on the butter, — if it does, it will de- stroy the grain, — but it should go upon the butter in a press- ing or rolling motion."

12. Test the temperature of the cream with a thermometer, and churn it at 60° in summer and 62° in winter. If the butter is soft, it may be hardened by pouring onto it while work-

13. 376 - SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN.

14. ing- a brine made by dissolving a pint of salt in ten quarts of water. The salt used in the butter should be carefully measured, three fourths of an ounce of salt to the pound being the usual allowance.

15. Butter, like milk, absorbs odors readily, and should never be allowed to remain in occupied rooms or any place exposed to strong or foul odors, but be kept covered in a cold place.

16. Cheese is a product of milk prepared by separating the casein, with more or less of the cream, according to the man- ner in which it has been prepared, from the other ingredients of the milk. It is an article, which, although possessing a large proportion -^of nutritive material, is very difficult of digestion, and the use of which is very questionable, not only for this reason, but because it is very liable to contain a poison called tyrotoxicon, capable of producing mo.st violent and indeed fatal results, according to the remarkable researches of Prof. Vaughan of Michigan University. This poison is sometimes found in ice cream and custards, cream-puffs, etc., made from stale milk or cream.

17. It is much better to use milk in its fresh, natural state than in any of its products. Made into either butter or cheese, we lose some of its essential elements, so that what is left is not a perfect food.

18. Hot Milk. — Milk is more easily digested when used hot. This is not due to any marked chemical change in the milk, but to the stimulating effect of heat upon the palate and stomach.

19. To prepare hot milk, heat it in a double boiler until a wrinkled skin appears upon the surface. In the double boiler it may be kept at the proper temperature for a long time without difficulty, and thus prepared, it forms one of the most healthful of foods.

20. Milk, either cold or hot, should be taken a few sips only at a time, and not be drank in copious draughts when used in connection with other foods at mealtime. It will then coagulate in the stomach in small flakes much more easily digested than the large mass resulting when a large quantity is swallowed at a time.

21. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. ^JJ

22. Devonshire or ('lotted ('ream. — This is prepared as follows : Strain the milk as it comes fresh from the cow into a deep pan which will fit tightly over a kettle in which water can be boiled, and set away in a cool^ well-ventilated place, where it should be allowed to remain undisturbed from eight to twelve hours or longer. Then take the pan up very care- fully so as not to disturb the cream, place over a kettle of water, heat to near the boiling point, or until a rim of bubbles half an inch wide forms all around the dish of milk. It must not, however, be allowed to boil, or the cream will be injured. Now lift the pan again with equal care back to a cool place and allow it to stand from twelve to twenty-four hours longer. The cream should be a compact mass of considerable thickness, and may be divided with a knife into squares of convenient size before skimming. It is delicious for use on fruit and grains.

23. Cottage Cheese. — This dish is usually prepared from milk which has curdled from lack of proper care, or from long standing exposed to the air, and which is thus in some degree decomposing. But the fact that the casein of milk is coagulated by the use of acids makes it possible to pre- pare this dish in a more wholesome manner without waiting for decompo- sition of the milk. Add to each four quarts of milk one cupful of lemon juice ; let it stand until coagulated, then heat slowly, but do not boil, until the curd has entirely separated from the whey. Turn the whole into a colander lined with a square of clean cheese cloth, and drain off the whey. Add to the curd a little salt and cream, mix all together with a spoon or the hands, and form into cakes or balls for the table. The use of lemon gives a delicious flavor, which may be intensified, if desired, by using a trifle of the grated yellow rind.

24. Cottag'e Cheese from Buttermilk. — Place a pail of fresh buttermilk in a kettle of boiling water, taking care to have sufficient water to come up even with the milk in the pail. Let the buttermilk remain until it is heated throughout to about 140°, which can be determined by keeping a ther- mometer in the milk and stirring it frequently. When it is sufficiently heated, empty the curd into strong muslin bags and hang up to drain for several hours. If properly scalded and drained, the curd will be quite dry and may be seasoned and served the same as other cottage cheese. If scalded too much, it will be watery.

25. Cottagre Cheese with Sour Milk. — Take a pan of newly-loppered thick sour milk, and place it over a kettle of boiling water until the whey sepa- rates from the curd, breaking and cutting the curd as the milk becomes warmed, so as to allow the whey, to settle. The milk should be well scalded, but not allowed to boil, as that will render the curd tough and leathery. Have ready a clean piece of cheese cloth spread inside a col- ander, dip the curd into it, and leave it to drain. If preferred, the corners

26. 37^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN.

27. of the cloth may be tied with a string, thus forming a bag in which the cheese may be hung up to drain. When well drained, remove the dry curd to a dish, rub it fine with the hands, add salt, and season with sweet cream, beating it well through the curd with a silver fork. It may be shaped into balls with the hands or pressed in large cups or bowls.

28. French Butter. — Fill a large, wide-mouthed glass bottle or jar about half full of thick sweet cream. Cork tightly, and with one end of the bottle in each hand shake it vigorously back and forth until the butter has separated from the milk, which it will generally do in a few minutes. Work out the buttermilk, make into small pats, and place on ice until ready to serve. As a rule this butter is not washed or salted, as it is intended for immediate use.

29. Shaken Milk. — Fit a conical tin cup closely over a glass of milk and shake it vigorously until all of a foam, after which it should be slowly sipped at once; or a glass of milk may be put into a quart fruit can, the cover tightly screwed on, and then shaken back and forth until the milk is foamy.

30. Emidsifled Butter. — Boil the butter with water for half an hour to destro)' any germs it may contain ; use plenty of water and add the butter to it while cold. When boiled, remove from the fire and allow it to be- come nearly cold, when the butter will have risen to the top and may be removed with a skimmer, or it may be separated from the water by turn- ing the whole after cooling into a clean strainer cloth placed inside a col- ander. The butter may be pressed in the cloth if any water still remains. If hardened, reheat just sufficient to soften, and add to it, while still hquid, but cooled to about blood heat, the yolk of one egg for each tablespoonful of butter, and stir until very thoroughly mingled.

31. Or, add to each tablespoonful of the liquid butter two level tablespoon- fuls of flour, rub together thoroughly, and cook until thickened in a half cupful of boiling water. If cream is not obtainable and butter must be used for seasoning, it is preferable to prepare it in one of the above ways for the purpose, using the quantity given as an equivalent of one cupful of thin cream. It will be evident, however, that these preparations will not only season but thicken whatever they are used in, and that additional liquid should be used on that account.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

Counts 7 of 8 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 7 portions

Ingredient	Portion assumed	kcal
Flour	1 cup (125g) all-purpose	455
Milk	1 cup (244ml) whole	149
Cheese	1 oz (28g) cheddar	113
Egg	1 large egg (50g)	78
Cream	1 tbsp (15ml) heavy	51
Lemon	juice of 1 lemon (48ml)	12
Salt	1 tsp (6g)	0
Water	not in our table	0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.