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VERYTHING should be clean. The goods should be scoured in soap and the soap rinsed out. They are often steeped in soap lye over night. Dip them into water just before putting them into preparations, to prevent spotting. Soft water should be iised, sufficient to cover the goods well — this is always understood where quantity is not mentioned. When goods are dyed, air, rinse well, and hang up to dry. Do not wring silk or merino dresses when scouring or dyeing them. If cotton goods are to be dyed a light color, they should first be bleached.

Black. — jMake a weak dye as for black on woollens; work goods in bichromate of potash a little below boiling heat, then dip in the logwood in same way; if colored in blue vitriol dye, use about same heat.

Brown on Silk or Cotton — Very Beautiful. — After obtain- ing a blue color as above, run goods through a solution of prussiate of potash, one ounce, to water, one gallon.

Crimson. — For one pound goods — alum, three ounces; dip at hand heat one hour; take out and drain while making new dye by boiling ten minutes, cochineal, three ounces, bruised nut-galls, two ounces, and cream of tartar, one-fourth ounce, in one pail of water; when little cool, begin to dip, raising heat to boil; dip one hour; wash and dry.

Green — Very Handsome. — For one pound goods — yellow oak

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bark, eight ounces; boil one-half hour; turn off liquor from bark and add alum, six ounces; let stand until cold; while making this, color goods in blue-dye-tub a light blue; dry and wash; dip in the alum and bark dye. If it does not take well, warm the dye a

Light Blue. — For cold Abater, one gallon, dissolve alum, one-half tablespoonf ul, in hot water, one cup, and add to it, then add chemic, one teaspoonful at a time to obtain the desired color — the more chemic, darker the color.

Old Gold. — Take green horse-radish leaves, steep them in water and make a strong dye. After dipping the silk or satin into the dye thoroughly, wash in soft soap-suds. Iron while damp, laying a cloth over the silk or ribbon. This should always be done when ironing silk or ribbon, even if it has not been washed, but simply sponged. Black silk may be sponged with cold coffee and ammonia.

Orange. — For one pound goods — annotto, one pound; soda, ono pound; repeat as desired.

Purple. — For one pound goods. First obtain a light blue, b^ dipping in home-made dye-tub; then dry; dip in alum, four ounces, with water to cover when little warm. If color is not full enough, add chemic.

Sk\ Blue on Silk or Cotton — Very Beautiful. — Give goods as much color from a solution of blue vitriol, two ounces, to water, one gallon, as it will take up in dipping fifteen minutes, then run it through lime water. This will make a beautiful and durable sky blue.

Yellow. — For one pound goods — alum, three ounces; sugar of lead, three-fourths ounce; immerse goods in solution over night; take out; drain and make a new dye with fustic, one pound; dip until required color is obtained.

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Woollen Goods.

Blue — Quick Process. — For two pounds goods — alum, five ounces; cream of tartar, three ounces; boil goods in this one hour, then put goods into warm water which lias more or less extract of indigo in it, according to the depth of color desired, and boil again until it suits, adding more of the blue if needed.

Chrome Black — Best in Use. — For five pounds goods — blue vitriol, six ounces; boil a few minutes, then dip goods three-fourths hour, airing often; take out goods, make a dye with three pounds logwood, boil one-half hour; dip three-fourths hour and air goods, and dip three-fourths hour more. Wash in strong suds. This will not fade by exposure to sun.

Green. — For each pound of goods — fustic, one pound, with alum three and one-half ounces; steep until strength is out, and soak goods until a good yellow is obtained; then remove the chips and add extract of indigo or chemic, one tablespoonful at a time, until color suits.

Madder Red. — To each pound of goods — alum, five ounces; red, or cream of tartar, one ounce. Put in goods and bring kettle to a boil for one-half hour, then air them and boil one-half hour longer; empty kettle and fill with clean water; put in bran one peck; make it milk-wai-m, and let it stand until bran rises, then skim off the bran and put in ^/ne-half pound madder; put in goods and heat slowly until it boils and is done. Wash in strong suds.

Orange. — For five pounds goods — muriate of tin, six tablespoon- fuls; argal, four ounces; boil and dip one hour, and add again to the dye one cup madder; dip again one-half hour. Cochineal; about two ounces, in place of madder, makes a much brighte: color.

Pink. — For three pounds goods — alum, three ounces; boil and dip the goods one hour; then add to the dye, cream of tartar, four ounces; cochineal, well pulverized, one ounce; boil well and dip the goods while boiling until the color suits.

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Scarlet — Very Fine, — For one pound goods — cream of tartar, one-half ounce, cochineal, well pulvei'ized, one-half ounce, muriate of tin, two and one-half ounces; boil up the dye and enter the goods; work them briskly for ten or fifteen minutes, then boil one and one-half hours, stirring goods slowly while boiling. Wash in clear water and dry in the shade.

Snuff Brown — Dark, — For five pounds of goods — camwood one pound; boil it fifteen minutes, then dip goods for three-fourths hour; take out goods, add to the dye, two and one-half pounds fustic; boil ten minutes and dip goods three-fourths hour; then add blue vitriol one ounce, copperas four ounces; dip again one-half hour. If not dark enough ; add more copperas.

Another Method — Any Shade. — Boil goods in a mordant of alum two parts, copperas, three parts; then rinse them through a bath of madder. The tint depends on the relative proportions of the coppera,s and alum; the more copperas the darker the dve. Joint weight of both should not be more than one-eighth of weight of goods. Mixtures of reds and yellows with blues and blacks, or simple dyes, will make aiiy shade.

"WnTE Color. — For five pounds goods — camwood, two pounds; boil fifteen minutes, and dip goods one-half hour; boil again and dip one-half hour; then darken with blue vitriol one and one-half ounces; if not dark enough, add copperas, one-half ounce.

Crimson. — Work for one hour in a bath with one pound cochi- neal paste; six ounces dry cochineal; one pound tartar; one pint protochloride of tin. Wash out and dry.

Dove and Slate Colors of all Shades. — Boil in iron vessel a cup of black tea with teaspoonf uls of copperas, and suflicient water. Dilute till you get the shade wanted.

Purple. — For each pound goods — two ounces cudbear; rinse goods well in soap suds, then dissolve cudbear in hot suds — not q«ite boiling — and soak the goods until of required color. The color is brightened by rinsing in alum water.

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Salmon. — For each pound goods — one-fourth pound annotto; one-fourth pound soap; rinse goods in warm water, put them into mixture and boil one-half hour. Shade will be according to amount of annotto.

Yellow — Rich. — Work five pounds goods one-half hour in a boiling bath with three ounces bichromate of potassa and two ounces alum; lift and expose till well cooled and drained, then work one-half hour in another bath with five pounds fustic. Wash out and dry.

Cotton Goods.

BlaCK. — For five pounds goods — boil them in » decoction of three pounds sumac one-half hour, and steep twelve hours; dip in lime water one-half hour; take out and let them drip one hour; run them through the lime water again fifteen minutes. Make a new dye with two and one-half pounds logwood (boiled one hour), and dip again three hours; add bichromate potash, two ounces, to the logwood dye and dip one hour. Wash in clear cold water and dry in shade. Only process for permanent black.

Green. — Dip goods in home-made blue; dye until blue enough is obtained to make the green as dark as required; take out, dry and rinse a little. Make a dye with fustic, three pounds, logwood, three ounces to each pound goods, by boiling dye one hour; when cooled so as to bear hand, put in goods, move briskly few minutes, and let lie one hour; take out and thoroughly drain; dissolve and add to the dye for each pound of cotton, blue vitrol, one half ounce, and dip another hour. Wring out and let dry in th^ shade. By adding or diminishing the logwood and fustic, any shade may be had.

Orange. — For five pounds goods — sugar of lead, four ounces; boil few minutes; when a little cool, put in goods; dip two hours; wring out; make a new dye with bichromate potash, eight ounces; madder, two ounces; dip until it suits; if color is too red, take small sample and dip into lime water and choose between them.

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Red, — Muriate of tin, two-thirds cup; add water to cover goods; raise to boiling heat; put in goods one hour; stir often; take out, empty kettle, put in clean water with nicwood, one pound, steep one-half hour at hand heat; then put in goods and increase heat one hour — not boiling. Air goods and dip one hour as before. Wash without soap.

Sky Blue. — For three pounds goods — blue vitrol, four ounces; boil few minutes, then dip goods three hours; then pass thera through strong lime water. A beautiful brown can be obtained by next putting goods through a solution of prussiate of potash.

Yellow. — For five pounds of goods — seven ounces sugar of lead; dip goods two hours; make new dye with bichromate of potash, four ounces; dip until color suits; wring out and dry. If not yellow enough, repeat.

Coloring Cotton Carpet Rags.

Blue. — For five pounds of cloth, take five ounces of copperas, with two pails of water in a tin or copper boiler; set it over the fire till the copperas is dissolved and it begins to heat, then put in the cloth, stirring it frequently till it boils, one-half or three-fourths of an hour; then remove the cloth where it can drain; pour away the copperas water and take two ounces of prussiate of potash in about two pails of water in the same vessel; when it is well dis- solved and hot, put in the cloth from the copperas water, stirring it thoroughly till it boils, one-half an hour, then remove the cloth; add (with care and caution, on account of the spattering which ensues) one tablespoonf ul of oil of vitrol, and stir it well in the dye; replace the cloth, stirring it briskly till it has boiled one-half an hour. Should be well rinsed and M'"ashed in clear water to pre- vent the dye from making it tender after coloring.

Yellow. — For five pounds of cloth dissolve one-half pound ol sugar of lead in a tub of warm water and twelve ounces of bichro- mate of potash m another tub of cold water; soak, rinse, and wring

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the cloth in the lead water first, then in the other, and return from one to the other, till the right shade of color is obtained.

Orange, — Dip the yellow colored cloth into strong lime water; if it should not turn, boil it; rinse all well.

Green. — Put your blue cloth in the yellow dye in the same manner as for coloring yellow. Old calico will take a darker shade of blue or green in the same dye with the white cloth.

To REiroYE Stains.

We shall commence by dealing with the most common stains, namely:

Ink Stains in Woollen Table-Covers and Carpets may be removed by washing the spots with a mixture of a teaspoonf ul of oxalic acid in a cup of warm water, after which the places must be rinsed with clean cold water to take out the acid.

Another Method. — Pour milk upon the ink directly and rub it with a damp flannel; repeat until the ink disappears. Then wash with flannel and water, and rub dry. When milk is at hand, place a plate under the ink spot and pour milk on the ink. Allow it to lie in the milk, and when removed from the table, if not free from ink, dip it in a cup or basin of milk and rinse in cold water.

To Remove Ink Stains from Floors or Mahogany. — Rub on with a cork a little spirits of wine, and wash it off with water.

To Remove Stains of Port Wine. — Wet the stain with sherry or bleaching liquid.

To Remove Mildew. — Wash in bleaching liquid. Stains in Silk. — Stains in colored silk dresses can often be removed by pure water.

Acid, Tea, Wine, and Other Stains. — Stains caused by acids, tea, or fruits, can often be removed by spirits of hartshorn, diluted with an qual quantity of water. To remove tar, pitch, or turpen tine t(^-^ spot may be saturated with sweet oil, or a little tallow may

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be spread upon it, after which it must remain for twenty-four hours. If the article is of linen or cotton, it must be washed in the usual way; but if silk or worsted, it is to be rubbed with ether or spirits of wine. Pure spirits of turpentine will remove recent spots of oil-paint by rubbing. Wax and spermaceti should be scraped off and the places where they have been should be rubbed with spirits of wine, spirits of turpentine, or mephuric ether. Grease spots can commonly be taken out of silk by means of French chalk as follows: Scrape a little chalk upon the spot and place underneath a warm iron or water plate filled with boiling water. The heat melts the grease, which is absorbed by the chalk and it can be removed by rubbing or brushing. It may be needful to repeat the process. A very good stain mixture is made with half an ounce of salts of tartar, half an ounce of sal-ammonia and half a pint of soft water. Places to which this is applied should be washed afterward in clean water. The mixture of oxalic acid and water above described will remove ink stains and iron mould from linen and calico. The article must be wetted with it and held over the steam of hot water, after which it must be washed with pure 5vater. If necessary the process may be repeated; but it must be Qoted that the preparation is highly poisonous.

Stains Caused by Scorching. — For whitening scorched linen, it is often sufiicient to wet it with soap-suds, and lay it in the hot sun. Another method, where milk is plentiful, is to put one pound of white soap into a gallon of milk and boil the scorched article in it. Another plan is to squeeze out the juice of two middle-sized onions, which is boiled in half a pint of vinegar, with one ounce of white soap and two ounces of fuller's earth; the mixture is applied cool to the scorched part, and when dry, washed off with pure •water.

How TO Restore Stained and Discolored Muslins. — Dis- colored muslins may be whitened if they are laid in a flat dish with suds made of white soap, and set out in the sun. This takes time and the suds have to be renewed daily. In the country, away froro

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the smoke of towns, white linen may be bleached by being wetted with soap-suds and spread out upon the grass in the sun.

Stains Caused by Mildew. — Mildew is removed in several ways from linen. Some dip the article in sour buttermilk, lay it in the sun to whiten, and then wash in clean water. Others apply soap and chalk, or soap and stai-ch, adding half as much salt as there is starch, and the juice of a lemon.

Linen. — Stains in linen can often be removed by rubbing them with soft soap, after which a starch paste is put on and the articles are dried in the sun. This process may need to be repeated several times. The soap and starch are to be washed off with pure cold water.

Stains on Mahogany, Etc. — The marks made by cups of hot water on varnished tables may be taken out with a little oil which must be rubbed on, after which a little spirits of wine must be also rubbed in. A teaspoonful of oil of vitriol in a tablespoonf ul of water, or the mixture of oxalic acid and water, above described, will take ink stains out of mahogany. The application is to be made quickly with a brush, or piece of flannel, and then washed off with milk.

Silver and Electro-plate Stains. — The obstinate dark stains upon silver and electi'o-plate may almost always be removed by means of a little diluted sulphuric acid. Pour the acid into a saucer, and, with a linen cloth wetted in it, rub the stain till it is gone. The article should afterwards be treated to a coat of fine whitening and spirits of wine. Let this remain on for half an hour; then wipe it off with a silk cloth and polish with soft wash- leather or a plate-brush.

To Take Ink Stains from Mahogany. — Oil of vitriol with water, in the proportion of about one of the former to two of the latter, may be used for this purpose. Dip a feather into it, just touch the stains with the end of the feather, and at once rub it quickly off. In most cases the ink stains will be removed with it;

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if this, however, should not be the case, repeat the process. If the vitriol is not at once removed, there is a probability of its merely substituting one defect for another — a white mark for a dark stain.

Oil Stains. — Oil stains in floors and carpets may be treated with a paste made of fuller's earth and water, which will have to be applied several times. If this paste is applied to colored textures, the addition of a little ox-gall will preserve the colors from injury. The paste, when dry, can be removed with a brush.