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French Dishes

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Beef and pork match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and 5,669 recipes mention both. Both carry 3-ethylphenol, which smells must. The science ↓

The recipe

Ingredients

Contains: egg, milk, wheat, shellfish (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Directions

  1. la Parisienne. Take three and a half pounds of the fillet of beef, and with a knife remove the skin on top ; cut some larding pork into strips, with which lard your beef on the surface. Then in a frying-pan put an onion sliced thin, a branch of thyme, three cloves, three pepper-corns, three bay-leaves, three parsley-roots, and a pinch of salt ; moisten with a sherry-glass of white wine and the same of con- somme (stock, Art. i), and place your fillet on top, on which put a few little pieces of butter ; simmer gently for about forty minutes, strain the liquid in which your fillet was cooked, pour it over the fillet and serve on a separate dish some potatoes a la Pa- risienne (Art. 438).

  2. 193. Fillet of Beef Saute, Madeira Sauce. Cut eight pieces from a fillet of beef about half an inch thick ; put into a saucepan an ounce of butter, a pinch of salt and pepper, a very little nutmeg, and place your pieces of beef on top; toss them for about five minutes on a quick fire, and, when done on both sides, serve them (one piece overlying the other) with half a pint of Spanish sauce (Art. 80), to which add a wineglass of madeira (or sherry) ; also serve with this dish some potato croquettes (Art.

  3. 194. Braised Beef, Tomato Sauce. Take three pounds of rump steak ; put in a saucepan four ounces of salt pork, which cut in small pieces, place your beef on top, and simmer gently for half an hour, turning it over from time to time ; then add as much consomme- (stock, Art. 1) as will entirely cover

  4. your beef, and two sherry-glasses of white wine, a carrot, an onion, three branches of thyme, three bay- leaves, three cloves, three pepper-corns, three pars- ley-roots, a pinch of salt and pepper, and a little nut- meg ; simmer gently for four hours, drain, and serve with a tomato sauce (Art. 90) ; or you can serve your beef with the liquid in which it was cooked, after having removed all the grease, and strained carefully.

  5. 195. Beef a la Mode. Take a round of beef of about four pounds, cut half a pound of larding pork in strips about two inches long, which roll in a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Make incisions in your beef, and introduce your strips of pork there- in. Cut a carrot and an onion in slices, and put them in a saucepan with several branches of pars- ley, inclosing three cloves, six bay -leaves, three branches of thyme, and tie all together, then add your beef, two claret-glasses of white wine, and a quart of consomme (stock). Simmer gently for three hours, drain off your beef, and strain the liquid in which it was cooked. Then put the beef with its liquid in a saucepan with two carrots and two tur- nips, which you have previously blanched and cut in slices, and twenty small onions. Simmer gently for an hour and a half, skim off the grease from the liquid, and serve.

  6. 196. Boiled Marrow-Bones. Tie up in a cloth eight marrow-bones, neatly trimmed, and of about four inches in length, boil an hour, remove the cloth, and serve them on toast, a small napkin neatly arranged around each bone.

  7. 197. Beefsteak Pie. Take two pounds of cold beef, cut it in small pieces. Put two dozen small white onions, with some butter, in a frying-pan on the fire, and cook gently until browned. Fry half a pound of bacon cut in small pieces, drain, moisten with a pint of Spanish sauce (Art. 80), add your onions, boil for a few moments, add your beef, and put all together in a deep dish, which you have lined with paste, moistening the edges of your dish so that the paste shall adhere. Cut out some paste the size of your dish and lay it on top. Dip a small brush in beaten egg, with which brush the entire top of your pie, which send to the oven until well colored, and serve. You may mix in your pie, if desired, about twenty-five oysters.

  8. Paste for the Pie. Put on a table six ounces of flour, make a hole in the middle, in which place three ounces of butter, and add a claret-glass of water. Mix all well together, and roll it out to the proper thickness.

  9. 198. Broiled Tripe. Cut some tripe into long pieces, season with pepper and salt. Broil them a nice brown, and serve them on the same plate with an ounce of melted butter, the juice of a lemon well mixed with it, and some chopped parsley. Honey- comb tripe is more delicate than the ordinary tripe.

  10. 199. Tripe a la Lyonnaise. Cut two pounds of tripe in thin strips, as for Julienne soup, put a sliced onion, with two ounces of butter, in a frying- pan ; when well colored, add your tripe, a pinch of salt and pepper, and very little nutmeg. Toss all

  11. together until all moisture is absorbed, then add about a quarter of a can of tomatoes, cook for a mo- ment longer, or until very hot, and serve with a lit- tle chopped parsley on top.

  12. 200. Fried Tripe. Cut some tripe in squares. Break two eggs, to which add a little salt and pep- per, and beat up your eggs well. Then dip your tripe in the eggs, roll them in flour, fry them in very hot lard, and when they are a light brown drain them, and serve with fried parsley on top.

  13. 201. Tripe a la Mode de Caen. Put in an earthen pot an onion cut in slices, a carrot in quar- ters, and four slices of bacon ; cover these with a layer of tripe, then a calf's foot cut in four, a pinch of salt and pepper, four cloves, four bay-leaves, three branches of thyme, six pepper-corns, and six pars- ley-roots. On top of these put a layer of bacon, an- other of tripe, another calf's foot, cut in pieces, and another layer of tripe, with some bacon on top. Fill your jar three quarters of its height with white wine. Put on the cover, and paste it all around the edge with some flour mixed in a little water, so as to ren- der the jar air-tight. Place it in the oven, and cook for five hours. Instead of white wine, you may sub- stitute cider if you wish.

  14. 202. Calf's Head en Tortue. Take a scalded calf's head, put it in a saucepan with enough water to cover it, boil for half an hour, and then plunge it in cold water ; mix four tablespoonfuls of flour with a

  15. little cold water ; cut an onion and a carrot in slices, and put in a saucepan, together with six cloves, six pepper-corns, six parsley-roots, four branches of thyme, six cloves of garlic, six bay-leaves, an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and lastly your calf's head ; add enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours. Take half a pint of Spanish sauce (Art. 80), put it on the fire in a saucepan with a wineglass of sherry, about ten mushrooms cut in pieces, and four chickens' livers which you have previously blanched ; drain your calf's head and put it on a dish with your sauce ; you may also serve with it the brains, from which you have re- moved all the fibers and loose skin, and also the tongue cut down the middle and the skin taken off.

  16. 203. Calf's Head a la Vinaigrette. Proceed as for the foregoing, and, just before serving, chop a little parsley, a little chervil, a small onion ; add a pinch of salt and pepper, four tablespoonfuls of vin- egar and eight tablespoonfuls of oil, and serve with your calf's head.

  17. 204. Baked Calf's Head a Tltalienne. Boil a calf's head as the preceding, cut it in pieces, which put in a pan, and cover with an Italian sauce (Art. 93) ; sprinkle some bread-crumbs on top, and a very little melted butter ; send to the oven, and, when colored a light brown, put it on a dish, and serve with an Italian sauce surrounding it. You may also serve with other sauces, according to your taste.

  18. 205. Calves' Tongues. Take four calves' tongues, which prepare as beef's tongue (Art. 180),

  19. ENTREES. 77

  20. and, after cooking two hours, take them off the fire, remove all skin, and cut them through the middle of the tongue. Put them on a dish, and serve with them an Italian sauce (Art. 93), sauce poivrade (Art. 95), tomato sauce (Art. 90), or with a macedoine of vegetables (Art. 416).

  21. 206. Calves' Brains ail Gratin. Put into cold water four calves' brains, clean them thor- oughly, removing all blood, fibers, and pieces of skin, after which change the water and let them soak for two hours, being careful to change the water every half-hour, then drain them ; put for a moment in a saucepan on the fire, four ounces of butter and a large sliced onion ; add the brains, season with pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently, turning them over so that both sides may be done, and drain off the grease; butter a deep dish, which sprinkle all over with bread-crumbs ; add a very thick bechamel sauce (Art. 83) to the brains, which put in the dish, let them cool, sprinkle bread- crumbs and some melted butter on top ; send to a moderate oven for half an hour, and serve,

  22. 207. Calves' Brains a la Poulette. Proceed as for beef's brain, allowing only half the time to boil ; put four brains on a dish, and pour over them a sauce a la poulette (Art. 103).

  23. 208. Fried Calves' Brains, Tomato Sauce. Boil four calves' brains as the preceding, drain them, and cut them into medium-sized pieces ; beat up two eggs, to which add a little salt and pepper ; dip the brains in the eggs and then sprinkle them with bread-

By Caron, Pierre, fl. 1886-1899. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Beef + porktop 1% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together5,669 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-ethylphenol (must).

  2. Garlic + parsleytop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together9,294 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Garlic + vinegartop 5% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together9,034 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

  4. Pork + buttertop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together13,848 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-furfurylthiol (coffee, roasted).

  5. Flour + buttertop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together122,858 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter share little aroma chemistry, yet 122,858 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Flavor stand-ins for the parsley

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (beef, pork, flour, butter, garlic, vinegar, sauce):

  1. Pepperabout as good a flavor fit
  2. Tarragonabout as good a flavor fit
  3. Parsleythe original
  4. Thymeabout as good a flavor fit

Fit is the average pairing score against beef, pork, flour, butter, garlic, vinegar, sauce. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).