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Salad

Salads and Salad Dressings

A set of chicken, cabbage and celery salad recipes, each with its own cooked or boiled dressing, from an old cookbook.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and celery are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 4,169 recipes. Both carry guaiacol, which smells smoky, sweet. The science ↓

Salads and Salad Dressings

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the greens

  1. Lettuce: wash it in ice water, break it apart and drain it on a fine sieve or on a piece of cheese cloth stretched over something handy.

  2. Keep the salad cold until it is served.

Chicken salad No. 1

  1. Chicken Salad No. 1: pick the chicken into small pieces and cut the celery about as large as a white bean.

  2. Chicken Salad No. 1: set the chicken and celery on the ice until needed, then mix together and salt and pepper them.

  3. Chicken Salad No. 1 dressing: heat the vinegar, butter, salt, pepper and sugar; when warm stir in the well-beaten egg yolks.

  4. Chicken Salad No. 1 dressing: stir until the mixture boils or thickens to the consistency of custard, set away to cool.

  5. Chicken Salad No. 1: when perfectly cool, add the mustard and cream, then pour over the dressing, which must be made long enough ahead to be perfectly cold.

Chicken salads No. 2 and No. 3

  1. Chicken Salad No. 2: mix the shredded chicken and celery lightly together and keep cold until serving.

  2. Chicken Salad No. 2 dressing: mix the ingredients together and heat in a basin set in a kettle of boiling water.

  3. Chicken Salad No. 2 dressing: stir constantly until it thickens, remove from the fire, then stir in the butter and lemon juice.

  4. Chicken Salad No. 2: when cold, thin the dressing with sweet cream and mix with the chicken.

  5. Chicken Salad No. 3: cut the chicken and celery into small pieces with a knife, stringing the celery first, and mix with the dressing.

  6. Chicken Salad No. 3 dressing: mix all together and heat; when warm, stir in the well-beaten eggs slowly and when thick put away to cool.

  7. Chicken Salad No. 3: when cold, add the whipped cream and lemon juice; if not used at once, add them only when serving.

Cabbage and celery salads

  1. Cabbage Salad No. 1: slice the cabbage fine.

  2. Cabbage Salad No. 1 dressing: beat the egg yolks, sugar, salt, pepper, mustard and vinegar together, set in a kettle of boiling water and stir constantly until thick, remove from the fire, add butter, and when cold thin with sweet cream and pour over the cabbage.

  3. Cabbage Salad No. 2: chop the cabbage.

  4. Cabbage Salad No. 2 dressing: set the vinegar to boil, then stir in the butter, egg, sugar, milk and salt.

  5. Cabbage Salad No. 2: when thick, pour the dressing over the cabbage.

  6. Celery Salad: cut the celery into bits half an inch long and set on ice while preparing the dressing.

  7. Celery Salad dressing: rub the egg yolks to a smooth paste, adding the salt, pepper, sugar, mustard and oil by degrees, then beat the raw egg to a froth and stir it in, then add the vinegar.

  8. Celery Salad: the dressing must be cold when poured over the celery; in hot weather stir a lump of ice in it for a few minutes, then remove and pour at once over the salad.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

870Calories
54 gProtein
58 gFat
35 gCarbs

Counts 16 of 17 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 16 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Chicken100g cooked165
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Olive Oil1 tbsp (14g)119
Cheese1 oz (28g) cheddar113
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Chili1 tsp (2.7g)8
Celery1 stalk (40g)6
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6
Vinegar1 tbsp (15ml) distilled3
Mustard1 tsp (5g) yellow3
Salt1 tsp (6g)0
Saladnot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Chippewa Falls, Wis. Episcopal church. Ladies aid society. [from old catalog]. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + celerytop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,169 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  2. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  3. Celery + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,467 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Celery + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together16,012 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Vinegar + mustardtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Egg yolks and whole eggs thicken the dressings as they cook, giving a smooth custard-like body.
Vinegar
Provides acidity that sharpens the dressing and balances the richness of butter and eggs.
Butter
Adds fat and richness, giving the cooked dressings a smooth, rounded mouthfeel.
Sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the sharpness of the vinegar and lemon juice.
Sweet cream
Thins the cooked dressings and adds moisture and richness.
Chicken
Forms the main body of the salad, supplying the substance that the dressing coats.

The step that matters

Cooking the egg dressings. Egg dressings thicken as the egg proteins set, but they curdle or turn grainy if overheated. Keep the heat gentle, stir constantly, and remove them once thick.

Swap the celery

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, vinegar, mustard, chicken, sugar, pepper, lemon):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Thymefits about as well
  3. Dillfits about as well
  4. Celerythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, vinegar, mustard, chicken, sugar, pepper, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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