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On Some Ancient and Modern Soups

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

On Some Ancient and Modern Soups

Ingredients

Directions

  1. you make it hot and serve witli small dice of bread fried to a golden colour in butter.

  2. The above formula cannot fail to be successful if the following points are attended to : thorough pounding, judicious flavouring, and rigorous skimming of all super- fluous fat.

  3. This soup is termed Bisque de Homard in the Gallic tongue, and is a preparation many hundred years old. By using crayfish instead of lobster, you will produce what is called Bisque aux ecrevisses.

  4. Another very ancient soup is the Potage a la Reine.

  5. According to the traditions of the kitchen, this soup owes its name to no less a personage than the wife of Henry IV., Margaret of Valois, who was said to be immensely fond of it. The ancient formula for preparing this soup is simple enough, and I shall transcribe it here, before setting forth the latest forms which it has been made to assume, at the hands of those who are authorities in such matters.

  6. Soak in a pint of clear stock a piece of bread crumb the size of a large egg. Pound in a mortar the breast (the white) of a roast fowl, with twelve sweet and three bitter almonds and six yolks of hard-boiled eggs. When the whole is thoroughly pounded into a paste, add the stock and bread crumb with a pint of cream or milk ; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and pass the whole through a tammy. The coulis thus obtained is to be kept very hot in a bain-marie until the time of serving, when it is poured over some toasted slices of bread and served.

  7. The more modern form of this soup in the grand style is as follows :

  8. Stew a couple of fowls with carrots, onions, sweet herbs, spices and salt to taste, and- a pinch of sugar. Keep on adding some good stock until you have added

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

639Calories
20 gProtein
12 gFat
110 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 6 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Bread + eggtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together22,662 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e)-2-octenal (fatty, green).

  3. Bread + peppertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,964 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Cream + peppertop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together21,449 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Cream and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 21,449 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

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