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Dessert

On Some Ancient and Modern Soups

A collection of recipes for various ancient and modern soups.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and egg are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 21% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 122,807 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

On Some Ancient and Modern Soups

Ingredients

Directions

Make the soup

  1. Add as much stock as you want to the soup, and set the saucepan by the side of the fire to simmer very gently for a couple of hours. Skim it well before serving.

  2. Another soup akin to the above is the Nivernaise, which is made thus:

Prepare the carrots

  1. Cut some carrots into the shape of olives or any fancy shape of that size.

  2. Boil the trimmings with some stock, so as to give it a very strong flavour of carrots.

  3. Toss the cut carrots in some butter, with a pinch of sugar, pepper, and salt, moistening after a while with a little of the stock.

  4. When they are cooked and almost glazed, add the remainder of the stock.

Make the custard

  1. A very effective soup for a dinner party is what is called Consomme a la Royale, which is naught else but pieces of custard floating in a clear and judiciously flavoured consomme. What gives it effect is the artful ordering of the custard, which is done thus:

  2. Mix the yolks of six eggs with rather less than a gill of cold water and a pinch of salt; strain the mixture, and divide it into three equal parts.

  3. Colour one part with some cochineal, the other with spinach greening, and leave the third plain.

  4. Put them into three plain moulds, previously buttered, and place these in a pan of hot water, which you put on the fire to boil just long enough to set the mixture.

  5. When the water in the saucepan has become quite cold, turn out the contents of each mould on a wet napkin, and you will have three cakes of custard, green, red, and yellow respectively.

  6. Cut them into small dice, and, handling them in the gentlest possible manner, spread them out on a plate, to be kept covered until wanted to be put into the soup tureen with the consomme.

Serve

  1. Poached eggs are sometimes put into clear soup. The length of time it takes to poach eggs is perhaps difficult.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

133Calories
6 gProtein
5 gFat
15 gCarbs

Counts 4 of 6 ingredients. The other 2 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 4 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Salt1 tsp (6g)0
Waternot in our table0
Cakenot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Sugar + peppertop 32% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,401 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Egg + peppertop 33% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together50,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 19,401 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Set the custard, giving the soup its tender, sliceable pieces.
Carrots (in the method)
Provide the main vegetable flavour and bulk for the Nivernaise soup.
Stock (in the method)
Forms the base liquid that carries the flavour of the soup.

The step that matters

Setting the custard in the water bath. Egg custard turns firm and grainy if heated too hard or too long. Gentle heat in a water bath lets the proteins set evenly into a smooth, tender custard that holds its shape when diced.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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