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Round the Table

Recipes for fruit, jam and cream fritters, plus several batter formulae for pancakes.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Round the Table

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the fruit

  1. Steep the strawberries in brandy, or use the above syrup for all three.

  2. Except for large strawberries, put all the fruit at once into the batter, then take out two or three at a time with a spoon.

  3. Drop the fruit skilfully into the hot fat so as to form one fritter.

  4. Roll the strawberries in sugar, dip in batter, and fry.

  5. Peel the pineapple and cut it into slices of convenient shape.

  6. Steep the pineapple for some hours in brandy, or better still in good old rum.

  7. Roll the pineapple in powdered sugar, dip in batter, and fry.

  8. Boil the rhubarb and celery pieces in sugar and water, or plain water, for a few minutes.

  9. Drain them and put them into cold water.

  10. When quite cold, lay them in a marinade of brandy and sugar for some hours.

  11. Then proceed as for other fritters.

  12. Moisten sheet wafer, wrap each piece of preserved fruit carefully in it, then dip in batter and fry.

Make the custard

  1. Make a smooth paste with three tablespoonfuls of potato flour and part of a pint of milk.

  2. Gradually add the rest of the milk, or the same quantity of milk and cream.

  3. Add two whole eggs, the yolks of three or four more, a pat of the freshest butter, and sugar to taste.

  4. If necessary, strain the mixture, set it on the fire, and stir until quite thick.

  5. When nearly cold, spread it on a buttered slab to about half an inch thick.

  6. When quite cold, cut it into fritters, then egg and bread crumb, or dip in batter before frying.

  7. Flavour the cream with vanilla, orange flower, or similar, or make it with chocolate dissolved in the milk.

Finish and serve

  1. Dry all fritters well in front of the fire before serving.

  2. Powder sweet fritters well with fine sugar, then glaze by holding a red-hot salamander over them.

Make the pancakes

  1. Pancake 1: mix two tablespoonfuls of flour with half a pint of cream, add two eggs, and beat well until smooth.

  2. Put in a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a little powdered cinnamon, and a little grated nutmeg.

  3. Pancake 2: mix half a pint of cream with three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a pint of white wine.

  4. Add the yolks of ten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and some powdered cinnamon.

  5. If too thick, dilute the batter with milk.

  6. Pancake 3: make a thin batter with a pint of cream and some flour.

  7. Put in half a pound of fresh butter melted, eight eggs well beaten, half a nutmeg grated, and a little salt.

  8. Pancake 4: beat six new-laid eggs with half a pint of cream and half a nutmeg grated.

  9. Add as much flour as will make the batter of the proper thickness.

  10. Pancake 5: mix a pint of milk with as much flour as will make a thin batter.

  11. Add a glass of pale brandy, a little grated nutmeg, a little powdered ginger, and a pinch of salt.

  12. Add four eggs and beat all well together until smooth.

  13. Pancake 6: make a thin batter with a quart of milk and some flour.

  14. Put in six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of powdered ginger.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

1090Calories
32 gProtein
32 gFat
162 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 12 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Potato1 medium (173g) baked161
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Wine2 tbsp cooking wine (30ml)25
Nutmeg1 tsp ground (2.2g)12
Cinnamon1 tsp ground (2.6g)6
Ginger1 tsp grated fresh (2g)2
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Cream + buttertop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. White wine + buttertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,083 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  4. Potato + milktop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,611 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,z)-2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, melon).

  5. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind the batter and custard, and set the custard when heated, giving structure.
Flour
Thickens the pancake batters and gives them body.
Potato flour
Thickens the custard into a smooth, firm paste that can be sliced.
Milk
Adds liquid and richness to the custard and batters.
Cream
Adds richness and fat, giving a softer, more tender pancake.
Butter
Adds fat and richness to the custard and pancake batter.

The step that matters

Stir the custard until quite thick, then cool it fully before cutting. The starch in the potato flour must be cooked until the mixture thickens, or the custard will stay runny. It must then cool firmly, so the slab holds its shape when cut into fritters for frying.

Swap the potato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, milk, cream, sugar, white wine, butter, egg):

  1. Leekfits about as well
  2. Potatothe original
  3. Asparagusfits about as well
  4. Shallotfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, milk, cream, sugar, white wine, butter, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.