Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Round the Table
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the fruit
Steep the strawberries in brandy, or use the above syrup for all three.
Except for large strawberries, put all the fruit at once into the batter, then take out two or three at a time with a spoon.
Drop the fruit skilfully into the hot fat so as to form one fritter.
Roll the strawberries in sugar, dip in batter, and fry.
Peel the pineapple and cut it into slices of convenient shape.
Steep the pineapple for some hours in brandy, or better still in good old rum.
Roll the pineapple in powdered sugar, dip in batter, and fry.
Boil the rhubarb and celery pieces in sugar and water, or plain water, for a few minutes.
Drain them and put them into cold water.
When quite cold, lay them in a marinade of brandy and sugar for some hours.
Then proceed as for other fritters.
Moisten sheet wafer, wrap each piece of preserved fruit carefully in it, then dip in batter and fry.
Make the custard
Make a smooth paste with three tablespoonfuls of potato flour and part of a pint of milk.
Gradually add the rest of the milk, or the same quantity of milk and cream.
Add two whole eggs, the yolks of three or four more, a pat of the freshest butter, and sugar to taste.
If necessary, strain the mixture, set it on the fire, and stir until quite thick.
When nearly cold, spread it on a buttered slab to about half an inch thick.
When quite cold, cut it into fritters, then egg and bread crumb, or dip in batter before frying.
Flavour the cream with vanilla, orange flower, or similar, or make it with chocolate dissolved in the milk.
Finish and serve
Dry all fritters well in front of the fire before serving.
Powder sweet fritters well with fine sugar, then glaze by holding a red-hot salamander over them.
Make the pancakes
Pancake 1: mix two tablespoonfuls of flour with half a pint of cream, add two eggs, and beat well until smooth.
Put in a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a little powdered cinnamon, and a little grated nutmeg.
Pancake 2: mix half a pint of cream with three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a pint of white wine.
Add the yolks of ten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and some powdered cinnamon.
If too thick, dilute the batter with milk.
Pancake 3: make a thin batter with a pint of cream and some flour.
Put in half a pound of fresh butter melted, eight eggs well beaten, half a nutmeg grated, and a little salt.
Pancake 4: beat six new-laid eggs with half a pint of cream and half a nutmeg grated.
Add as much flour as will make the batter of the proper thickness.
Pancake 5: mix a pint of milk with as much flour as will make a thin batter.
Add a glass of pale brandy, a little grated nutmeg, a little powdered ginger, and a pinch of salt.
Add four eggs and beat all well together until smooth.
Pancake 6: make a thin batter with a quart of milk and some flour.
Put in six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of powdered ginger.
Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)
What these numbers assume: 12 portions
| Ingredient | Portion assumed | kcal |
|---|---|---|
| Flour | 1 cup (125g) all-purpose | 455 |
| Potato | 1 medium (173g) baked | 161 |
| Milk | 1 cup (244ml) whole | 149 |
| Butter | 1 tbsp (14g) | 102 |
| Egg | 1 large egg (50g) | 78 |
| Cream | 1 tbsp (15ml) heavy | 51 |
| Sugar | 1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated | 49 |
| Wine | 2 tbsp cooking wine (30ml) | 25 |
| Nutmeg | 1 tsp ground (2.2g) | 12 |
| Cinnamon | 1 tsp ground (2.6g) | 6 |
| Ginger | 1 tsp grated fresh (2g) | 2 |
| Salt | 1 tsp (6g) | 0 |
One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Cream + buttertop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
-
White wine + buttertop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,083 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
-
Potato + milktop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,611 recipes
Shared aroma: (e,z)-2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, melon).
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Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and custard, and set the custard when heated, giving structure.
- Flour
- Thickens the pancake batters and gives them body.
- Potato flour
- Thickens the custard into a smooth, firm paste that can be sliced.
- Milk
- Adds liquid and richness to the custard and batters.
- Cream
- Adds richness and fat, giving a softer, more tender pancake.
- Butter
- Adds fat and richness to the custard and pancake batter.
The step that matters
Stir the custard until quite thick, then cool it fully before cutting. The starch in the potato flour must be cooked until the mixture thickens, or the custard will stay runny. It must then cool firmly, so the slab holds its shape when cut into fritters for frying.
Swap the potato
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, milk, cream, sugar, white wine, butter, egg):
- Leekfits about as well
- Potatothe original
- Asparagusfits about as well
- Shallotfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against flour, milk, cream, sugar, white wine, butter, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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