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Round the Table

A custard pudding made with milk, egg yolks, and caramelized sugar, baked in a water bath.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and egg are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and 88,785 recipes mention both. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Round the Table

Ingredients

Directions

Finish the apple dish

  1. Stiff froth with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, sprinkle powdered sugar over, and bake about twenty minutes in a slack oven.

  2. The above dish can be varied by using, instead of apples cooked as above, a preserve or marmalade of apples or of any other fruit, and likewise oranges treated in the manner following:

  3. Oranges au riz Meringuees. — Peel off the thin rind of a number of oranges, make a thick syrup by boiling some loaf sugar in a little water, and let the orange rind infuse in this for a little time, but not boil in it. With a sharp knife remove from the oranges every vestige of the remaining white part of the rind; core them as you would apples, so as to get rid of the pips, cut them in half, dispose them on the rice, pour some of the above syrup over them, and then finish the dish as in the foregoing recipe.

  4. The custard pudding of the nursery is also a very simple dish, which can be set before grown-up people if prepared after the following fashion:

Make the caramel

  1. Caramel Pudding: Put a handful of loaf sugar to boil with a very little water until the syrup becomes a deep brown; warm a small basin, pour the syrup in it, and keep turning the basin in your hand until the inside is completely coated with the syrup or caramel, which will by that time have set.

Make the custard

  1. Strain the yolks of eight eggs from the whites, and mix them gradually and effectually with one pint of milk.

  2. Pour this mixture (which may be left plain, or may be flavoured with orange flower water, essence of vanilla, or of lemon, &c.) into the prepared mould, lay a piece of paper on the top, set it in a sauce-pan full of cold water — taking care that the water does not come over the top of the mould — put on the cover, and set the saucepan by the side of the fire to boil gently for one hour.

Cool

  1. Then remove the saucepan to a cool place.

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Milk + eggtop 18% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together88,785 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Milk + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together77,875 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Milk and sugar share little aroma chemistry, yet 77,875 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Egg proteins and yolks set the custard into a firm, sliceable body as it gently heats.
Milk
Provides the liquid base that gives the custard its soft, creamy moisture.
Loaf sugar
Melts and browns into caramel, lining the basin with a deep, bittersweet flavour and gloss.
Powdered sugar
Adds sweetness to the froth and sprinkled topping.

The step that matters

Browning the caramel. The syrup must reach a deep brown before it goes into the basin, because pale syrup tastes weak and over-darkened syrup turns bitter. Turning the warm basin while the caramel is still liquid coats it evenly, and the caramel hardens into a glaze as it cools.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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