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The Bakers Guide

A method for icing cakes using sugar, eggs, and optional gelatin or acetic acid.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Egg and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 21% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 122,807 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

The Bakers Guide

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the piping tools

  1. Get some firm lard and work it up lightly with a little flour, then use ordinary icing pipes or paper tubes to ornament a cake tin turned bottom-upwards; the lard can be scraped off and reused.

  2. Make paper tubes or pipes: cut a small square of good paper from corner to corner to form a triangle shape, fold into a cone, cut the point off to the desired size, place the tube and icing inside, fold down the mouth when icing is put in to prevent squeezing out when the paper is pressed. Use the thumb on the top to press the sugar out, not the guiding fingers at the bottom; keep fingers clean but do not lick them with the tongue.

Make the icing

  1. Prepare icing: dissolve 1 oz of gelatin or isinglass in a gill of water, add a pinch of tartaric acid or 4 drops of acetic acid, beat in icing sugar until stiff. Put the mixture in a clean dry basin and beat until it stands in shape (about ten minutes). If coloured icing is desired, beat in the colouring.

Ice the cake

  1. Put icing on the top of the cake, covering it all over or only the top as desired, using a palette knife large enough to cover the diameter of the top. Work the icing from side to side, always keeping one side of the knife upon the sugar. Do not take the knife off, turn over, or scrape the cake. After the top is well and evenly covered, draw the knife off with one sweep.

  2. If the surface is a little rough, lift the cake and knock it gently on the table to fill the ridges left by the knife. If the sides are to be sugared, let the sugar run over, put the knife round once roughly to cover the cake, then give one even sweep right round the sides.

  3. For the sides, use a slanting knife rather than a flat one so that it carries the excess sugar before the finish of the stroke. Put a frill of white tissue-paper around the side, then a slightly narrower pink frill over it, so that the white shows a little above and below the pink.

Finish and decorate

  1. Ornament the top with twelfth-cake ornaments or other desired ornaments. Wedding cakes should be all white; birthday, christening, or other table cakes should be coloured. Do not make the colours too glaring and deep; use delicate tints.

  2. Use pipes as shown or use a thread pipe as you would a writing pencil. A modern and nicer form of ornamentation is to glaze with fondant sugar and then decorate with glace fruits, angelica, etc. Royal icing to eat is an abomination.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

127Calories
6 gProtein
5 gFat
13 gCarbs

Counts 2 of 3 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 2 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Waternot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Blandy, John. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Gelatin or isinglass (in the method)
Sets the water and sugar mixture so the icing stands in shape rather than running.
Icing sugar
Forms the bulk of the icing and, beaten until stiff, gives it body and a smooth spreadable texture.
Tartaric acid or acetic acid
Adds a small amount of acidity that helps keep the icing stable and balances its sweetness.

The step that matters

Keep the knife on the sugar while spreading the top. Lifting or turning the knife mid-stroke drags the icing and leaves ridges and tears, because the sugar mixture is only partly set and smooths best under one continuous, even contact.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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