Boiled Sugar Goods
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Make a good fire with coke or charcoal, allowing it to burn fairly clear.
Put into a preserving pan as much refined sugar as needed, add not quite half a pint of water per pound of sugar, and a pinch of cream of tartar; stir all together.
Boil and test
If the fire is very hot, pull the pan a little to one side; do not let it boil until the sugar is dissolved, then let it boil rapidly; carefully skim all the dross or scum that rises to the top; let it boil.
Perform the degree tests: dip your finger in cold water, quickly nip a little sugar out; press finger and thumb together, and open them again quickly. If the sugar forms thin threads, that is the first degree (candy). Boil this candied sugar a minute or two longer until the sugar taken in the skimmer and blown forms into bubbles or bladders (blown degree). Boil this another minute; if the sugar flies off in flakes when you jerk the skimmer, it has attained the third degree (feather). Boil the sugar another minute; just enough time to draw some cold water; put a stick in the sugar, then quickly put it into cold water. If it becomes quite hard directly, it is the fourth degree (crack). For barley sugar, add a pinch of citric acid or lemon juice and ensure the water is perfectly cold when you put the sugared stick into it. To reach the caramel degree, boil the sugar a little longer; put a little into cold water, and if it cracks like glass, it is the caramel degree.
Finish the drops
For acidulated drops, tablets, coloured or white drops: use 5 lbs sugar, oz cream of tartar, oz tartaric acid, pint water, and desired flavouring and colour. Boil sugar and water as directed, dissolve cream of tartar in a tablespoon of water, throw into pan, and boil to the crack stage (320 °F). Pour onto a well-oiled slab, let cool sufficiently to work in colouring and flavouring, then when firm enough, cut into pieces with a drop machine. Dust with fine white sugar and pack in airtight tins.
For raspberry drops: use 3 lbs sugar, pint water, i oz cream of tartar; boil as preceding to crack; add i lb good sweet butter and a teaspoonful essence of raspberry; as soon as mixed, pour into moulds; when cold, wrap in waxed paper, tinfoil, etc.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.
Explore the science
What each ingredient does
- Sugar (in the method)
- Forms the body of the sweets and, as it cooks, sets to a hard, glassy texture.
- Cream of tartar
- Its acid helps prevent the sugar from crystallising, keeping the boiled sugar smooth.
- Butter (in the method)
- Adds fat and richness, softening the texture of the raspberry drops.
The step that matters
Judging the degree of boiling. Sugar darkens and hardens quickly near the caramel stage, so a moment too long can burn it. Testing in cold water at each stage shows how much water is left and how hard the candy will set.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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