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Sauce

Brown Sauces

Brown sauces are built on Spanish sauce (Espagnole), with variations such as Chateaubriand, Piquante, Poivrade, Bordelaise and Robert sauces.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Anchovy and sauce are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,057 recipes. Both carry ethanol, which smells alcoholic, ethereal. The science ↓

Brown Sauces

Ingredients

Directions

Make the base

  1. Melt two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour in a copper saucepan and stir over the fire until a pale bright brown.

  2. Add a pint of stock, the fried vegetables and a gill of tomato sauce.

  3. Let it gently simmer for half an hour with the cover off.

  4. Strain through a fine sieve.

  5. Wash, peel and cut small the mushrooms, carrot, onion and shallot, dry them, and fry them a fine brown in a tablespoonful of butter without burning.

  6. Drain off the butter.

Make the variations

  1. For Chateaubriand, add a wineglass of sherry reduced to half a glass by boiling, a dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley and the juice of half a small lemon to one third the quantity of Spanish sauce.

  2. Stir in one ounce of butter gradually, bit by bit, letting each piece blend before adding more.

  3. For Piquante sauce, stew a finely chopped shallot with a tablespoonful of vinegar until the vinegar is entirely absorbed, without burning.

  4. Add half a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill of stock with a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, and cook very gently ten minutes.

  5. Remove the thyme and bay-leaf, add a dessertspoonful of chopped pickled cucumber, a teaspoonful of capers and a dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley.

  6. Simmer very slowly ten minutes more, adding cayenne to lay on the tip of a penknife blade.

  7. For Poivrade, fry an onion and a small carrot cut fine, a sliced tomato and an ounce of lean ham in two ounces of butter until slightly browned.

  8. Add half a pint of claret, a bouquet of herbs, two cloves and six peppercorns, and simmer until the wine is reduced one half.

  9. Add half a pint of good Spanish sauce, boil gently ten minutes, strain, and serve very hot.

  10. For Bordelaise sauce, scald a tablespoonful of chopped shallots and put them to half a pint of Chablis or Sauterne, reducing the wine to one gill.

  11. Mix with half a pint of Spanish sauce and a sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper, then strain and serve.

  12. For Robert sauce, chop three medium-sized onions fine and fry them in a tablespoonful of butter until a clear yellowish-brown, stirring constantly.

  13. Drain the onions and put them to a half-pint of Spanish sauce with a wineglass of stock, then simmer gently twenty minutes.

  14. Add a pinch of pepper and strain.

  15. Mix a teaspoonful of vinegar in a cup with a teaspoonful of mustard and stir this into the sauce.

  16. For Sauce a la Normande, add to half a pint of Spanish sauce a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, shellfish, a tablespoonful of picked shrimps, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy and a dust of cayenne pepper.

  17. For Downton sauce, add a dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry to three quarters of a pint of bechamel and mix well.

  18. For Orange sauce, boil half a pint of Spanish sauce five minutes to thicken it, then add the juice of three sweet oranges and the thinly pared peel of one.

  19. Boil the peel half an hour in water, shred it into fine strips, then stew the strips another half-hour in a gill of stock with a scant teaspoonful of sugar.

  20. Add the shredded peel to the sauce with half a saltspoonful of salt and boil five minutes.

  21. For Matelote, simmer half a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, chive, a scant saltspoonful of salt and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper until reduced to one half-pint.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

1354Calories
102 gProtein
39 gFat
146 gCarbs

Counts 23 of 25 ingredients. The other 2 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 23 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Pork100g cooked242
Anchovy100g210
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Shrimp100g cooked99
Sweet Orange1 medium (131g)62
Onion1 medium (110g)44
Wine2 tbsp cooking wine (30ml)25
Carrot1 medium (61g)25
Tomato1 medium (123g)22
Mushroom1/2 cup sliced (35g)15
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Clove1 tsp ground (2g)7
Shallot1 tbsp minced (10g)7
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6
Thyme1 tsp dried (1.4g)4
Vinegar1 tbsp (15ml) distilled3
Mustard1 tsp (5g) yellow3
Capers1 tbsp (9g) drained2
Tarragon1 tsp dried (0.5g)2
Parsley1 tbsp chopped fresh (3.8g)1
Salt1 tsp (6g)0
Waternot in our table0
Saucenot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Anchovy + saucetop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,057 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  2. Parsley + tomatotop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,398 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Sherry + vinegartop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together660 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  4. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Parsley + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together16,675 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Enriches the sauce and gives it a smooth, rich body when stirred in.
Flour
Thickens the sauce when cooked with butter into a roux.
Stock
Forms the liquid base that the sauce simmers in.
Tomato sauce
Adds acidity and colour to the base sauce.
Sherry
Adds aroma and depth when reduced by boiling.
Vinegar
Adds acidity, sharpening the flavour of the piquante sauce.

The step that matters

Frying the vegetables without burning. Browning sugars and proteins gives colour and flavour, but past a fine brown they turn bitter and can taint the whole sauce.

Swap the tomato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, parsley, anchovy, flour, sauce, sherry, vinegar):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Chivefits better
  3. Capsicumfits better
  4. Tomatothe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, parsley, anchovy, flour, sauce, sherry, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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