Why it works: Pepper and thyme are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,585 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓
Is to Prepare This with Milk Instead of Water
Ingredients
Directions
[301] CUSTARD _TYROPATINAM_
ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON A SLOW FIRE [in hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [3].
[1] _Sextarium._
[2] _ad heminam._
[3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries say that the _tyropatina_ is a kind of cheese cake. It must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably because of the similarity in appearance and texture.
Cf. {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143.
[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE [1] _OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE_
FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3] AND SERVE [4].
[1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as "Floating Island"; he, the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula.
[2] Tor. _sinas bullire_--which is correct. List. _facies ut bulliat_--which is monstrous.
[4] Tor. continues without interruption.
[303] CHEESE AND HONEY _MEL ET CASEUM_ [1]
PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2].
[1] G.-V. _Melca ... stum_; List. _mel castum_, refined honey; Tac. _Mel caseum_; Tor. _mel, caseum_. Cf. {Rx} No. 294.
[2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a little sugar.
[304] BULBS [1] _BULBOS_
SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER.
[1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 307.
[305] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_
SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor. _tundes_; probably a typographical error, as this should read _fundis_, i.e. _infundis_. Wanting in the other texts.
[306] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_
COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of {Rx} No. 305, repeated by Tor.
[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1] _VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_
COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.
[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business-like recital of recipes is broken by some interesting quotation or remark.
Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a posterior reader.
[2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quærunt_--"seek the mouth of Venus."
This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many writers, as might be expected, into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur._ 1. XIII, Ep. 34:
_Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._
We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works, M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes," and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84, Diæteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying: _Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._
[308] FRIED BULBS _BULBOS FRICTOS_
ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum].
MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1] _FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_
[309] MORELS [2] _FUNGI FARNEI_
MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the mushrooms in].
[1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. {Rx} No. 115.
[2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms."
[310] FOR MORELS _IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_
Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)
What these numbers assume: 6 portions
| Ingredient | Portion assumed | kcal |
|---|---|---|
| Milk | 1 cup (244ml) whole | 149 |
| Egg | 1 large egg (50g) | 78 |
| Black Pepper | 1 tsp ground (2.3g) | 6 |
| Thyme | 1 tsp dried (1.4g) | 4 |
| Vinegar | 1 tbsp (15ml) distilled | 3 |
| Mustard | 1 tsp (5g) yellow | 3 |
One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
-
Pepper + thymetop 4% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together11,585 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
-
Thyme + mustardtop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together913 recipes
Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).
-
Vinegar + mustardtop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together14,067 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Pepper + mustardtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,430 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).
-
Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together27,814 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
Swap the thyme
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, egg, pepper, vinegar, mustard):
- Tarragonfits better
- Dillfits better
- Capersfits better
- Thymethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against milk, egg, pepper, vinegar, mustard. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
More custard recipes
You might also like
The free Flavor Lab newsletter: one surprising pairing a week and the molecular reason it works, in 60 seconds. No spam, unsubscribe anytime.
Prefer an account? Create a free account to save pairings and unlock the full chemistry.
White Cake431 recipes
Pound Cake373 recipes
Orange Bundt Cake349 recipes
Spice Cake344 recipes