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Dessert

Boiled Dressing I

A thickened dressing made by boiling a mixture of salt, mustard, sugar, cayenne, flour, egg yolks, butter, milk, and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Boiled Dressing I

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. Mix the dry ingredients.

  2. Add the slightly beaten egg yolks, melted butter, milk, and vinegar very slowly.

  3. Cook over boiling water until the mixture thickens.

Strain and cool

  1. Strain and cool.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

845Calories
28 gProtein
26 gFat
122 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 9 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6
Mustard1 tsp (5g) yellow3
Vinegar1 tbsp (15ml) distilled3
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Fannie Merritt Farmer. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Mustard + flourtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,066 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Set when heated, thickening the dressing and giving it a smooth, rich body.
Flour
Starch thickens the liquid as it heats, helping the dressing hold together.
Vinegar
Adds sharp acidity that balances the sweetness and richness.
Sugar
Adds sweetness that rounds out the sharp vinegar flavor.
Butter
Adds fat for richness and a smoother mouthfeel.
Milk
Forms the liquid base that gives the dressing its soft, pourable texture.

The step that matters

Cooking over boiling water until it thickens. Egg yolks set as they heat, which thickens the dressing. If the heat is too high or the cooking runs too long, the yolks can curdle or turn grainy. Adding the liquid slowly beforehand helps keep the mixture smooth.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, flour, egg, butter, milk, vinegar):

  1. Shallotfits about as well
  2. Capsicumfits about as well
  3. Chivefits about as well
  4. Mustardthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, flour, egg, butter, milk, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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