Hot English Sauces

112—APPLE SAUCE

Quarter, peel, core, and chop two lbs. of medium-sized apples; place these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a bit of cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls of water. Cook the whole gently with lid on, and smooth the purée with a whisk when dishing up.

Serve this sauce lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, &c.

113—BREAD SAUCE

Boil one pint of milk, and add three oz. of fresh, white bread-crumb, a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, and one oz. of butter. Cook gently for about a quarter of an hour, remove the onion, smooth the sauce with a whisk, and finish it with a few tablespoonfuls of cream.

This sauce is served with roast fowl and roast feathered game.

114—CELERY SAUCE

Clean six stalks of celery (only use the hearts), put them in a sautépan, wholly immerse in consommé, add a faggot and one onion with a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain the celery, pound it in a mortar, then rub it through a tammy and put the purée in a stewpan. Now thin the purée with an equal quantity of cream sauce and a little reduced celery liquor. Heat it moderately, and, if it has to wait, put it in a _bain-marie_.

This sauce is suited to boiled or braised poultry. It is excellent, and has been adopted in French cookery.

115—CRANBERRY SAUCE

Cook one pint of cranberries with one quart of water in a stewpan, and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked drain them in a fine sieve through which they are strained. To the purée thus obtained add the necessary quantity of their cooking liquor, so as to make a somewhat thick sauce. Sugar should be added according to the taste of the consumer.

This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. It is to be bought ready-made, and, if this kind be used, it need only be heated with a little water.

116—FENNEL SAUCE

Take one pint of butter sauce (No. 66) and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel, scalded for a few seconds.

This is principally used with mackerel.

117—EGG SAUCE WITH MELTED BUTTER

Dissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the necessary salt, a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and three hard-boiled eggs (hot and cut into large cubes); also a teaspoonful of chopped and scalded parsley.

118—SCOTCH EGG SAUCE

Make a white roux with one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour. Mix in one pint of boiling milk, season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, and boil gently for ten minutes. Then add three hot hard-boiled eggs, cut into cubes (the whites and the yolks).

This sauce usually accompanies boiled fish, especially fresh haddocks and fresh and salted cod.

119—HORSE-RADISH OR ALBERT SAUCE

Rasp five oz. of horse-radish and place them in a stewpan with one-quarter pint of white consommé. Boil gently for twenty minutes and add a good one-half pint of butter sauce, as much cream, and one-half oz. of bread-crumb; thicken by reducing on a brisk fire and rub through tammy. Then thicken with the yolks of two eggs, and complete the seasoning with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of mustard dissolved in a tablespoonful of vinegar.

Serve this sauce with braised or roast beef—especially fillets.

119a—PARSLEY SAUCE

This is the Butter Sauce (No. 66), to which is added, per pint, a heaped tablespoonful of freshly-chopped parsley.

120—REFORM SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze sauce and one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete with a garnish composed of one-half oz. of gherkins, one-half oz. of the hard-boiled white of an egg, one oz. of salted tongue, one oz. of truffles, and one oz. of mushrooms. All these to be cut _Julienne-fashion_ and short.

This sauce is for mutton cutlets when these are “à la Reform.”

CHAPTER IV

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS

121—AIOLI SAUCE, OR PROVENCE BUTTER

Pound one oz. of garlic cloves as finely as possible in a mortar, and add the yolk of one raw egg, a pinch of salt, and one-half pint of oil, letting the latter gradually fall in a thread and wielding the pestle meanwhile, so as to effect a complete amalgamation. Add a few drops of lemon juice and cold water to the sauce as it thickens, these being to avoid its turning.

Should it decompose while in the process of making or when made, the only thing to be done is to begin it again with the yolk of an egg.

122—ANDALOUSE SAUCE

Take the required quantity of Mayonnaise sauce (No. 126) and add to it the quarter of its volume of very red and concentrated tomato purée, and finally add two oz. of capsicum cut finely, _Julienne-fashion_, per pint of sauce.

123—BOHEMIAN SAUCE

Put in a bowl one-quarter pint of cold Béchamel, the yolks of four eggs, a little table salt and white pepper. Add a quart of oil and three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, proceeding as for the Mayonnaise.

Finish the sauce with a tablespoonful of mustard.

124—GENOA SAUCE

Pound in a mortar, and make into a smooth, fine paste, one oz. of pistachios and one oz. of fir-apple kernels, or, if these are not available, one oz. of sweet almonds; add one-half tablespoonful of cold Béchamel. Put this paste into a bowl, add the yolks of six eggs, a little salt and pepper, and finish the sauce with one quart of oil, the juice of two lemons, and proceed as for the Mayonnaise.

Complete with three tablespoonfuls of purée of herbs, prepared with equal quantities of chervil, parsley, tarragon, and fresh pimpernel, scalded for one minute. Cool quickly, press so as to expel the water, and pass through a fine sieve.

Serve this sauce with cold fish.

125—GRIBICHE SAUCE

Crush in a basin the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, and work them into a smooth paste, together with a large tablespoonful of French mustard, the necessary salt, a little pepper, and make up the sauce with one pint of oil. Complete with one dessertspoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon (chopped and mixed), as many capers and gherkins, evenly mixed, and the hard-boiled whites of three eggs, cut short, _Julienne-fashion_.

This sauce is chiefly used with cold fish.

126—MAYONNAISE SAUCE

Put in a basin the yolks of six raw eggs, after having removed the cores. Season them with one-half oz. of table-salt and a little cayenne pepper. Gradually pour one-fifth pint of vinegar on the yolks while whisking them briskly. When the vinegar is absorbed add one quart of oil, letting the latter trickle down in a thread, constantly stirring the sauce meanwhile. The sauce is finished by the addition of the juice of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of boiling water—the purpose of the latter being to ensure the coherence of the sauce and to prevent its turning.

Mayonnaise prepared in this way is rather liquid, but it need only be left to rest a few hours in order to thicken considerably. Unless it be exposed to too low a temperature, the Mayonnaise, prepared as above, never turns, and may be kept for several days without the fear of anything happening to it. Merely cover it to keep the dust away.

_Remarks._—In the matter of that sauce there exist endless prejudices, which I must attempt to refute:—

1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the oil has been added too rapidly at first, before the addition of the vinegar, and that its assimilation by the yolks has not operated normally.

2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over ice or in a cold room. Cold is rather deleterious to the Mayonnaise, and is invariably the cause of this sauce turning in winter. In the cold season the oil should be slightly warmed, or, at least, kept at the temperature of the kitchen, though it is best to make it in a moderately warm place.

3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with the making of the sauce, for salt, in solution, rather provokes the cohering force of the yolks.

_Causes of the Disintegration of the Mayonnaise_:—

1. The too rapid addition of the oil at the start. 2. The use of congealed, or too cold, an oil. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the assimilating power of an egg being limited to two and one-half oz. of oil (if the sauce be made some time in advance), and three oz. if it is to be used immediately.

_Means of Bringing Turned Mayonnaise Back to its Normal State._—Put the yolk of an egg into a basin with a few drops of vinegar, and mix the turned Mayonnaise in it, little by little. If it be a matter of only a small quantity of Mayonnaise, one-half a coffeespoonful of mustard can take the place of the egg-yolk. Finally, with regard to acid seasoning, a whiter sauce is obtained by the use of lemon juice instead of vinegar.

127—CLEARED MAYONNAISE SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Mayonnaise and gradually add to it, per one and one-half pints of the sauce, one-half pint of cold and rather firm melting aspic jelly—Lenten or ordinary, according to the nature of the products for which the sauce is intended.

_Remarks._—It is this very Mayonnaise, formerly used almost exclusively for coating entrées and cold relevées of fish, filleted fish, escalopes of common and spiny-lobster, &c., which I have allowed the Lenten Chaud-froid (see remarks No. 76) to supersede.

128—WHISKED MAYONNAISE

Put into a copper basin or other bowl three-quarters pint of melted jelly, two-thirds pint of Mayonnaise, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and as much rasped or finely-chopped horse-radish. Mix up the whole, place the utensil on ice, and whisk gently until the contents get very frothy. Stop whisking as soon as the sauce begins to solidify, for it must remain almost fluid so as to enable it to mix with the products for which it is intended.

This sauce is used principally for vegetable salads.

129—RAVIGOTE SAUCE, OR VINAIGRETTE

Put into a bowl one pint of oil, one-third pint of vinegar, a little salt and pepper, two oz. of small capers, three tablespoonfuls of fine herbs, comprising some very finely chopped onion, as much parsley, and half as much chervil, tarragon, and chives. Mix thoroughly. The Ravigote accompanies calf’s head or foot, sheep’s trotters, &c.

Two or three tablespoonfuls of the liquor with which its accompanying solids have been cooked, _i.e._, calf’s head or sheep’s trotters liquor, &c., are often added to this sauce when dishing up.

130—REMOULADE SAUCE

To one pint of Mayonnaise add one large tablespoonful of mustard, another of gherkins, and yet another of chopped and pressed capers, one tablespoonful of fine herbs, parsley, chervil, and tarragon, all chopped and mixed, and a coffeespoonful of anchovy essence.

This sauce accompanies cold meat and poultry, and, more particularly, common and spiny lobster.

131—GREEN SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of thick Mayonnaise and spicy seasoning, and add to these, per pint of sauce, one-third pint of herb juice, prepared as indicated hereafter (No. 132).

This is suitable for cold fish and shell fish.

132—VINCENT SAUCE

Prepare and carefully wash the following herbs:—One oz. each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, sorrel-leaves, and fresh pimpernel, two oz. of water-cress and two oz. of spinach. Put all these herbs into a copper bowl containing salted, boiling water. Boil for two minutes only; then drain the herbs in a sieve and immerse them in a basin of fresh water. When they are cold they are once more drained until quite dry; then they must be finely pounded with the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs. Rub the purée thus obtained through a sieve first, then through tammy, add one pint of very stiff Mayonnaise to it and finish the sauce with a dessertspoonful of Worcestershire sauce.