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Soup

Particulars of the Operation

A clear soup made from turtle flesh, gelatinous turtle shell garnish, and beef consommé, flavoured with vegetables and herbs.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Rum and sage work together. They rank in the top 19% of all ingredient pairs, and 14 recipes mention both. Both carry myrcene, which smells balsamic, herbaceous. The science ↓

The recipe

five quarts

Ingredients

Contains: milk, tree nuts (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Also mentioned in the method: pistachio

Directions

Prepare the turtle

  1. Lay the turtle on its back on a table with its head hanging over the side.

  2. Hook the turtle's lower jaw with a double butcher's hook and suspend a heavy weight from the other spike so the animal holds its head back.

  3. Sever the head from the body with all possible dispatch.

  4. Hang the body over a receptacle to collect the blood, and leave it for one and one-half or two hours.

  5. Thrust a strong knife between the carapace and the plastron, exactly where the two meet, and separate them.

  6. Cut all the adhering flesh from the plastron and put the plastron aside.

  7. Cut off the flippers.

  8. Remove the intestines and throw them away.

  9. Carefully collect all the green fat.

  10. Cut away the flesh adhering to the carapace.

  11. Remove all fat from the carapace and keep both the carapace and plastron in reserve.

  12. Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron into four.

Cook the shell and flesh

  1. Blanch the flippers in boiling water or steam until stiff enough for their skin to be removed, then withdraw them.

  2. Blanch the pieces of carapace and plastron for five minutes so they can be scraped.

  3. Cool the pieces of carapace, plastron and flippers, and put them into a stewpan with enough water to cover them.

  4. Set to boil, garnish with vegetables as for an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.

  5. Cook the carapace and plastron for five or six hours, withdrawing the flippers after five hours.

  6. Remove the flesh from the bones of the pieces, cool it, trim it, and cut it into squares of one and one-half inches side.

  7. Poach the green fat in salted water and slice it; the squares and sliced fat form the garnish.

Make the soup

  1. Put the turtle flesh, head and bones into a stewpan, moisten with the carapace cooking liquor and enough water to bring the whole to 50 quarts.

  2. Add salt at one oz. per five quarts, set to boil, and skim.

  3. Garnish with twelve carrots, about ten bound leeks with a head of celery, one lb. of parsley stalks, eight onions stuck with ten cloves, two lbs. of shallots, and one head of garlic.

  4. Boil gently for eight hours.

  5. An hour before straining, add four strips of lemon-peel, a bunch of turtle herbs (sweet basil, sweet marjoram, sage, rosemary, savory and thyme), and a bag of four oz. coriander and two oz. peppercorns.

  6. Strain the soup through a napkin, add the reserved garnish squares of carapace and plastron flesh, and keep it in sandstone jars until wanted.

  7. When serving, heat the soup, test and adjust the seasoning, and add a port wine glass of very old Madeira to every quart.

By Auguste Escoffier. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Rum + sagetop 19% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together14 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  2. Milk + buttertop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together81,222 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  3. Garlic + chickentop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together10,839 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-ethyl-2,5-dimethylpyrazine (roasted, nutty).

  4. Clove + carrottop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together4,916 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  5. Clove + sagetop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together583 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Chicken consommé
Provides the clear, savoury liquid body of the soup.
Carrots
Add sweetness and aromatic depth as they cook into the broth.
Onions
Add sweetness and savoury depth as they soften during the long simmer.
Leeks
Add a mild onion-like aroma and savoury background flavour.
Garlic
Adds a pungent aroma that mellows during the long simmer.
Tapioca
Lightly thickens the consommé to give it body.

The step that matters

Boil gently for eight hours.. A gentle simmer keeps the broth clear. A hard rolling boil breaks up fat and fine particles, which emulsify into the liquid and cloud the soup.

Flavor stand-ins for the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (garlic, rum, milk, chicken, carrot, butter, asparagus):

  1. Gingerbetter flavor fit
  2. Thymebetter flavor fit
  3. Parsleybetter flavor fit
  4. Clovethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against garlic, rum, milk, chicken, carrot, butter, asparagus. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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