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Boudins Et Quenelles De Volaille

A collection of French chicken forcemeat dishes, including boudins, quenelles, croquettes and cutlets, with related cocks' comb and kidney preparations.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Capsicum and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 34,571 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

Boudins Et Quenelles De Volaille

Ingredients

Directions

Boudins and quenelles

  1. Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-ounce portions.

  2. Roll these portions into sausage form and open them so as to stuff them with white chicken meat, truffle and mushroom salpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce.

  3. Alternatively, line the bottom and sides of well-buttered rectangular moulds with a one-third inch thickness of forcemeat.

  4. Garnish the centre of the mould with salpicon, cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.

  5. Poach the boudins like quenelles, then drain them on a piece of linen.

  6. Dip the boudins in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and gently colour them in clarified butter so that the inside heats at the same time.

  7. Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

  8. For Boudins Soubise, prepare the boudins with forcemeat, replacing the salpicon with a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.

  9. Poach, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and colour in clarified butter as before.

  10. Serve a clear Soubise separately.

  11. For Quenelles Morland, mould somewhat firm chicken mousseline forcemeat into oval quenelles of three ounces each.

  12. Dip the quenelles in beaten egg and roll them in finely minced truffle, pressing lightly with the blade of a knife so the truffle combines with the egg.

  13. Poach gently in clarified butter under cover so the forcemeat cooks well.

  14. Dish in a circle and pour a mushroom purée in the middle.

  15. For Quenelles d'Uzès, line oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream.

  16. Garnish the middle with minced white chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.

  17. Poach the quenelles in good time and drain them on a piece of linen.

  18. Set them in a circle on a round dish, coat with Aurore sauce, and garnish the centre of the circle with a fine Julienne of truffles.

Capilotade and pie

  1. For Capilotade of Fowl, prepare an Italienne sauce combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms.

  2. Add thin slices of cold cooked fowl to the sauce and heat without allowing it to boil.

  3. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle chopped parsley over the preparation.

  4. For Chicken Pie, cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée, season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely chopped onions, one and one-half ounces of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

  5. Line the bottom and sides of a pie dish with thin slices of veal.

  6. Set the pieces of fowl inside with the legs undermost, add five ounces of thin slices of bacon and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two, and moisten with chicken consommé to three-parts cover.

  7. Cover with a layer of puff paste sealed to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the dish, gild, streak, make a slit in the middle, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.

  8. When the pie comes out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

Cocks' combs and kidneys

  1. For cocks' combs and kidneys, first soak them in cold water for a few hours.

  2. If fresh, put them in a saucepan of cold water made lukewarm, then drain and rub them in a towel to remove the skins.

  3. Trim them and keep them in fresh water, changed frequently, until they are quite white.

  4. Cook the combs in a very light Blanc.

  5. Soak the kidneys in cold water for a few hours and put them to cook with the combs a few minutes before the combs are ready.

  6. For Cocks' Combs and Kidneys à la Grecque, about twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice and a very little saffron.

  7. Season and dredge ten roundels of egg-plant and fry them in oil just before dishing.

  8. When the rice is cooked, add twenty-four very fresh cocks' kidneys frizzled in butter and twelve fine blanched cocks' combs, poached after the manner of lambs' sweetbreads.

  9. Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

  10. For Desirs de Mascotte, fry three ounces of butter in a vegetable pan until nut-brown.

  11. Add twenty-four fine cocks' kidneys, seasoned with salt, pepper and a little red pepper, and cook them for five to six minutes.

  12. Stamp out twelve croûtons of bread-crumbs one-third inch thick with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter, and fry them in butter at the last minute.

  13. Put four fine, very black truffles cut into somewhat thick slices into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce.

  14. Add the drained kidneys, the fried croûtons, one and one-half ounces of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently so the butter combines with the sauce.

  15. Dish immediately in a very hot silver timbale and serve instantly.

Croquettes and cutlets

  1. For cold stuffed cocks' kidneys, choose fine cooked kidneys and cut them into two lengthwise.

  2. Trim them slightly underneath so they lie steady.

  3. Stuff them by piping a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, or of chicken white and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

  4. Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, set them in a low timbale, and cover with light jelly.

  5. They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.

  6. For Chicken Croquettes and Cutlets, use one pound of meat from a poached or roast fowl, cleared of skin, cartilage and bones, and cut into small regular dice.

  7. Add six ounces of cooked mushrooms, an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four ounces of truffles, all cut like the chicken, and mix them together.

  8. Add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole and set it to dry for a few minutes over an open fire.

  9. Remove from the fire and thicken with the yolks of four raw eggs, quickly mixed in.

  10. Pour into a very clean buttered tray, butter the surface, and let it cool.

  11. When quite cold, transfer the preparation by spoon in pieces of about two ounces to a flour-dusted board.

  12. Shape the croquettes or cutlets, dip them in anglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs.

  13. Plunge them into very hot fat and fry until golden, then drain.

  14. Dish them in a crown on a napkin with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

  15. Serve the accompaniment separately; Tomato and Périgueux sauces are most commonly used, with purées, peas, French beans or jardinières as garnishes.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

335Calories
12 gProtein
6 gFat
57 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 6 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Rice1 cup cooked (158g) white206
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Onion1 medium (110g)44
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Parsley1 tbsp chopped fresh (3.8g)1
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Auguste Escoffier. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Capsicum + peppertop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together34,571 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Parsley + peppertop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together34,122 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Parsley + capsicumtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,094 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  4. Rice + capsicumtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,890 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Onion + capsicumtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together23,390 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind and set the coatings and croquette mixture, helping shapes hold together when cooked.
Pilaff rice
Forms the base of the dish, soaking up flavour from the sauce and kidneys.
Cocks' kidneys
Main protein, prized for a tender texture when cooked briefly.
Cocks' combs
Main protein, giving a soft, gelatinous texture when poached gently.
Egg-plant
Fried roundels add a crisp, golden contrast to the soft rice and meats.

The step that matters

Cook the kidneys briefly. Kidneys turn firm and tough when overcooked, so they should be cooked only a few minutes until just set.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (parsley, rice, egg, capsicum, pepper):

  1. Carrotfits better
  2. Okrafits better
  3. Eggplantfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against parsley, rice, egg, capsicum, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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