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Dessert

Paste Puddings.

A set of puddings made by thickening milk with various pastes and eggs, then baking or poaching.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and egg are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 88,785 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Paste Puddings.

Ingredients

Directions

Make the tapioca base

  1. Sprinkle eight ounces of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt and three ounces of butter.

  2. Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half ounces of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Mould and serve

  1. Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in the bain-marie until the preparation seems resilient to the touch.

  2. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out.

  3. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.

Variations

  1. Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.

  2. Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.

  3. Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.

  4. Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.

  5. Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a bain-marie.

  6. Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould, clothed with sugar cooked to the caramel stage.

  7. Poach in a bain-marie and serve plain.

  8. This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.

  9. Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.

  10. The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493, 2494, etc.

  11. The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.

  12. Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.

  13. Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

227Calories
14 gProtein
13 gFat
13 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 3 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Auguste Escoffier. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + eggtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together88,785 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Tapioca (in the method)
Thickens the boiled milk into a soft, set pudding body as it cooks.
Egg yolks
Enrich the custard base and help it set smooth and tender when poached.
Egg whites
Beaten to a froth, they lighten the mixture and add airiness to the set pudding.
Milk
Forms the liquid base that the starch swells in and the eggs set.
Butter (in the method)
Adds richness and a silky mouthfeel to the pudding.

The step that matters

Poaching until resilient to the touch. Egg proteins set as the pudding heats; overcooking makes it tough and rubbery, while undercooking leaves it too loose to hold its shape when turned out.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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