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Burlington Whimsey

A cold, savoury moulded dish of minced calf's head and ham set in seasoned gravy, turned out when cold.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and mushroom are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 12,525 recipes. Both carry trans-2-decenal, which smells waxy, orange. The science ↓

Burlington Whimsey

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the head

  1. Set aside until quite cold half a calf's head dressed by the preceding receipt.

  2. If, on cutting it, the gelatinous part should not appear perfectly tender, pare it off closely from the head, weigh, and mince it.

  3. Mince as much more of the head as will make up a pound in weight after the edges are trimmed off and part of the fat is taken away.

Season and simmer

  1. Put the minced gelatinous part into a pint of good gravy, and stew it gently from ten to fifteen minutes.

  2. Add to the minced head three ounces of the lean of a boiled ham finely chopped, the grated rind of a large lemon, three teaspoonsful of parsley and one of thyme shred very small, three quarters of a teaspoonful of mace, half a small nutmeg grated, a teaspoonful of salt, and 1/8 part of a teaspoonful of cayenne.

  3. Stir the whole well together, and put it with half a pint more of gravy to the portion already simmered.

  4. Boil the whimsey softly from four to five minutes.

Mould and serve

  1. Pour it into moulds or pans in which slices of the tongue have been evenly arranged.

  2. When quite cold, turn it out; it will turn out very firmly.

  3. Garnish, if wished, with branches of perfectly dry parsley before it is sent to table.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

537Calories
37 gProtein
33 gFat
26 gCarbs

Counts 14 of 18 ingredients. The other 4 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 14 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Pork100g cooked242
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Mushroom1/2 cup sliced (35g)15
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Nutmeg1 tsp ground (2.2g)12
Clove1 tsp ground (2g)7
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6
Thyme1 tsp dried (1.4g)4
Vinegar1 tbsp (15ml) distilled3
Parsley1 tbsp chopped fresh (3.8g)1
Salt1 tsp (6g)0
Liquornot in our table0
Macenot in our table0
Vealnot in our table0
Meatnot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Eliza Acton. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  2. Mushroom + parsleytop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,132 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  3. Veal + mushroomtop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,446 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  4. Mace + parsleytop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,268 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Butter + parsleytop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together28,563 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-hexenal (green, leafy).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calf's head
Provides the gelatinous meat that sets the whimsey firm when cold.
Gravy
Adds moisture and savoury body so the mixture stays tender while simmering.
Boiled ham
Adds a salty, savoury meatiness that deepens the flavour of the mixture.
Lemon rind
Adds bright aromatic oils that lift the rich meat flavour.

The step that matters

Boil the whimsey softly. Gentle heat keeps the minced meat tender and prevents the gelatine-rich mixture from toughening or breaking up, so it sets cleanly when cold.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (ham, butter, sugar, veal, vinegar, mushroom, parsley):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Marjoramfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against ham, butter, sugar, veal, vinegar, mushroom, parsley. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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