Gateau De Pommes

Ingredients

• one pound of it add a pound
• nine ounces of sugar broken small
• six ounces of sugar
• a pound of well-refined sugar
• a pint of water
• a pound of sugar roughly powdered
• an ounce of isinglass
• a gallon of water
• a pound of sugar broken small
• a quart of prepared apple-juice
• a pound of fresh apples pared
• a quart of calf's feet stock
• a pint of strained china-orange juice mixed
• one very large lemon
• 1/2 pint
• 2 lbs
• 1 large
• 2 small lemons
• five half-pints of strong calf's feet stock
• two fine lemons
• half cut very thin
• four large eggs
• 2-1/2 pints
• 1 pint
• 4 large
• 5 small
• three half pints
• four calf's feet well cleaned
• two quarts
• five large
• seven eggs
• three lemons
• 1 gallon
• 1 bottle
• 5 large lemons
• six moderate-sized
• 7 eggs
• four oranges
• eight eggs
• 1 quart
• 1-1/2 pint
• two fruits might answer well
• two lemons
• three oranges
• six eggs

Directions

1. Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound of well-refined sugar and half a pint of water; then add a couple of pounds of nonsuches, or of any other finely-flavoured apples which can be boiled easily to a smooth pulp, and the juice of a couple of small, or of one very large lemon. Stew these gently until the mixture is perfectly free from lumps, then boil it quickly, keeping it stirred, without quitting it, until it forms a very thick and dry marmalade. A few minutes before it is done add the finely grated rinds of a couple of lemons; when it leaves the bottom of the preserving-pan visible and dry, press it into moulds of tasteful form; and either store it for winter use, or if wanted for table, serve it plain for rice-crust, or ornament it with spikes of blanched almonds, and pour a custard round it for a second-course dish (_entremets_).

2. Sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1/2 pint: 15 minutes. Nonsuches or other apples, 2 lbs.; juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons: 2 hours or more.

3. GATEAU OF MIXED FRUITS. (GOOD.)

4. Extract the juice from some fresh red currants by simmering them very gently for a few minutes over a slow fire: strain it through a folded muslin, and to one pound of it add a pound and a half of nonsuches or of freshly gathered codlings, pared, and rather deeply cored, that the fibrous part of the apple may be avoided. Boil these quite slowly until the mixture is perfectly smooth, then, to evaporate part of the moisture, let the boiling be quickened. In from twenty-five to thirty minutes draw the pan from the fire, and throw in gradually a pound and a quarter of sugar in fine powder: mix it well with the fruit, and when it is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for twenty minutes longer, keeping the mixture constantly stirred; put it into a mould, and store it, when cold, for winter use, or serve it for rice-crust, or for the second course: in the latter case decorate it with spikes of blanched almonds, or pistachio-nuts, and heap solid whipped cream round it, or pour a custard into the dish. For rice-crust it may be garnished with dice of the palest apple-jelly.

5. Juice of red currants, 1 lb.; nonsuches, or codlings (pared and cored), 1-1/2 lb.: 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 1-1/2 lb.: 20 minutes.

6. _Obs._—A portion of raspberries, if still in season, may be mixed with the currants for this _gâteau_, should the flavour be liked.

7. For other and excellent varieties of _gâteaux_ of fruit, see Newton solid, and damson solid, Chapter XXIV. Ripe peaches and nonsuches will likewise do well for it. Codlings answer perfectly for the preceding receipt, and the preparation is of fine colour and very pleasant flavour: it ought to cut in clear firm slices. Other varieties of fruit can be mingled in the same manner.

8. CALF’S FEET JELLY. (ENTREMETS.)

9. Modern Jelly Mould. ]

10. We hear inexperienced housekeepers frequently complain of the difficulty of rendering this jelly perfectly transparent; but by mixing with the other ingredients, while quite cold, the whites, and the crushed _shells_ of a sufficient number of eggs, and allowing the head of scum which gathers on the jelly to remain undisturbed after it once forms, they will scarcely fail to obtain it clear. It should be strained through a thick flannel, or beaver-skin, bag of a conical form (placed before the fire, should the weather be at all cold, or the mixture will jelly before it has run through), and if not perfectly clear it must be strained, again and again, until it becomes so; though we generally find that once suffices. Mix thoroughly in a large stewpan five half-pints of strong calf’s feet stock (see page 453), a full pint of sherry, half a pound of sugar roughly powdered, the juice of two fine lemons, the rind of one and a half cut very thin, the whites and shells of four large eggs, and half an ounce of isinglass. Let these remain a few minutes off the fire, that the sugar may dissolve more easily; then let the jelly be brought to boil gradually, and do not stir it after it begins to heat. When it has boiled gently for sixteen minutes, draw it from the fire, and let it stand a short time before it is poured into a jelly-bag, under which a bowl should be placed to receive it. When clear and cool, put it into moulds which have been laid for some hours in water: these should always be of earthenware in preference to metal. If to be served in glasses, or _roughed_, the jelly will be sufficiently firm without the isinglass, of which, however, we recommend a small quantity to be thrown in always when the jelly begins to boil, as it facilitates the clearing.

11. Calf’s feet stock, 2-1/2 pints; sugar, 1/2 lb.; sherry, 1 pint; juice of lemons, 2 _large_; rind of 1-1/2; whites and shells of eggs, 4 large, or 5 small: 16 minutes.

12. _Obs. 1._—After the jelly has dropped through the bag, an exceedingly agreeable beverage may be obtained by pouring in some boiling water; from one to three half pints, according to the quantity of jelly which has been made. The same plan should be pursued in making orange or lemon jelly for an invalid.

13. _Obs. 2._—As it is essential to the transparency of calf’s feet jelly of all kinds that the whole of the ingredients should be quite cold when they are mixed, and as the stock can only be measured in a liquid state, to which it must be reduced by heating, the better plan is, to measure it when it is first strained from the feet, and to put apart the exact quantity required for a receipt; but when this has not been done, and it is necessary to liquefy it, it must be left until quite cold again before it is used. For the manner of preparing and clarifying it, see the beginning of this chapter.

14. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR CALF’S FEET JELLY.

15. To four calf’s feet well cleaned and divided, pour a gallon of water and let them stew until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts; or if, after the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, the liquor on being strained off should exceed that quantity, reduce it by rapid boiling in a clean uncovered pan over a very clear fire. When it is perfectly firm and cold, take it clear of fat and sediment, and add to it a bottle of sherry, which should be of good quality (for poor, thin wines are not well adapted to the purpose), three-quarters of a pound of sugar broken small, the juice of five large or of six moderate-sized lemons, and the whites, with the shells finely crushed, of seven eggs, or of more should they be very small. The rinds of three lemons, pared exceedingly thin, may be thrown into the jelly a few minutes before it is taken from the fire; or they may be put into the jelly-bag previously to its being poured through, when they will impart to it a slight and delicate flavour, without deepening its colour much. If it is to be moulded, something more than half an ounce of isinglass should be dropped lightly in where the liquid becomes visible through the head of scum, when the mixture begins to boil; for if not sufficiently firm, it will break when it is dished. It may be roughed, or served in glasses without this addition; and in a liquid state will be found an admirable ingredient for Oxford, or other punch.

16. Calf’s feet, 4; water, 1 gallon: to be reduced more than half. Sherry, 1 bottle; sugar, 3/4 lb. (more to taste); juice of 5 large lemons, or of six moderate-sized; whites and shells of 7 eggs, or more if small; rinds of lemons, 3 (for moulding, nearly 3/4 oz. of isinglass): 15 to 20 minutes.

17. _Obs._—An excellent and wholesome jelly for young people may be made with good orange or raisin wine, instead of sherry; to either of these the juice of three or four oranges, with a small portion of the rind, may be added instead of part of the lemons.

18. MODERN VARIETIES OF CALF’S FEET JELLY.

19. In modern cookery a number of excellent jellies are made with the stock of calves’ feet, variously flavoured. Many of them are compounded entirely without wine, a small quantity of some fine _liqueur_ being used as a substitute; and sometimes cinnamon, or vanilla, or Seville orange-rind with a slight portion of acid, takes place of this. For aristocratic tables, indeed, it is the present fashion to serve them very lightly and delicately flavoured. Their cost is thus materially diminished. Fresh strawberries dropped into clear calf’s feet jelly just before it _sets_, impart a delicious fragrance to it, when they are of a choice kind; and other fruit is mingled with it often; but none has so good an effect, though many sorts when tastefully employed give an excellent appearance to it. The _Belgrave mould_, of which the description will be found at page 470, is well adapted for highly ornamental jellies; and we recommend its adoption for this class of dishes.

20. APPLE CALF’S FEET JELLY.

21. Pour a quart of prepared apple-juice (see page 456), on a pound of fresh apples pared and cored, and simmer them until they are well broken; strain the juice, and let it stand until cold; then measure, and put a pint and a half of it into a stewpan with a quart of calf’s feet stock (see page 453), nine ounces of sugar broken small, or roughly pounded, the juice of two fine lemons, and the thin rinds of one and a half, with the whites and shells of eight eggs. Let it boil gently for ten minutes, then strain it through a flannel-bag, and when cool put it into moulds. It will be very clear, and firm, and of pleasant flavour. Apples of good quality should be used for it, and the quantity of sugar must be regulated by the time of year, as the fruit will have lost much of its acidity during the latter part of the season. This receipt, which is the result of our own experiment, and which we have found very successful, was first tried just after Christmas, with pearmains and Ripstone pippins. A little syrup of preserved ginger, or a small glass of fine white brandy, would, perhaps, to some tastes, improve the jelly; but we give it simply as we have had it proved ourselves.

22. Prepared apple juice, 1 quart; fresh apples, 1 lb.: 1/2 to 3/4 hour. Strained juice, 1-1/2 pint; calf’s feet stock, 1 quart; sugar, 9 oz.; juice of lemons, 2; rind of 1-1/2; whites and shells of eggs, 8: 10 minutes.

23. _Obs._—We would recommend the substitution of quinces for apples in this receipt as likely to afford a very agreeable variety of the jelly: or equal portions of the two fruits might answer well. Unless the stock be very stiff, add isinglass to this, as to the calf’s feet jelly, when it is to be moulded.

24. ORANGE CALF’S FEET JELLY.

25. (_Author’s Receipt._)

26. To a pint and a half of firm calf’s feet stock, put a pint of strained China-orange juice mixed with that of one or two lemons; add to these six ounces of sugar, broken small, the _very_ thin rinds of three oranges and one lemon, and the whites of six eggs with half the shells crushed small. Stir these gently over a clear fire until the head of scum begins to form, but not at all afterwards. Simmer the jelly for ten minutes from the first _full_ boil; take it from the fire, let it stand a little, then pour it through a jelly-bag until perfectly clear. This is an original, and entirely new receipt, which we can recommend to the reader, the jelly being very pale, beautifully transparent, and delicate in flavour: it would, we think, be peculiarly acceptable to such invalids as are forbidden to take wine in any form.

27. The proportions both of sugar and of lemon-juice must be somewhat varied according to the season in which the oranges are used.

28. Strong calf’s feet stock, 1-1/2 pint; strained orange-juice, mixed with a small portion of lemon-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 6 oz.; rinds of oranges, 3; of lemon, 1: 10 minutes.

29. _Obs._—A small pinch of isinglass thrown into the jelly when it begins to boil will much assist to clear it. When the flavour of Seville oranges is liked, two or three can be used with the sweet ones.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

Counts 5 of 7 ingredients. The other 2 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 5 portions

Ingredient	Portion assumed	kcal
Apple	1 medium (182g)	95
Egg	1 large egg (50g)	78
Orange	1 medium (131g)	62
Sugar	1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated	49
Lemon	juice of 1 lemon (48ml)	12
Water	not in our table	0
Fruit	not in our table	0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.