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Dessert

Ices and Ice Cream

A custard-based ice cream made with milk, eggs, sugar, cream, vanilla, and ice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and vanilla are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 19,187 recipes. Both carry ethyl caproate, which smells fruity, apple peel. The science ↓

Ices and Ice Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Make the custard

  1. Boil 3 pints of milk in a custard kettle or a pail set in boiling water.

  2. Beat yolks of eggs separately.

  3. Beat whites of eggs separately.

  4. Mix yolks with remaining pint of milk.

  5. Stir the mixture into the boiling milk.

  6. Boil for 2 minutes.

  7. Remove from heat.

  8. Add sugar and let it dissolve.

  9. Strain custard through a crash towel.

  10. Cool the strained custard.

  11. Add cream and vanilla.

  12. Refrigerate until needed.

Freeze

  1. Prepare ice by pounding it until lumps are small.

  2. Set the freezer in a tub.

  3. Secure the cover.

  4. Layer ice and salt around the freezer.

  5. Pack solidly with a broom-handle or stick.

  6. Pour custard into the freezer, filling two-thirds full.

  7. Replace the cover.

  8. Begin turning the freezer.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + vanillatop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,187 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl caproate (fruity, apple peel).

  2. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  4. Cream + vanillatop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together12,301 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonanone (fruity, floral).

  5. Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Yolks thicken the custard as they heat and give it a rich, smooth body.
Milk
Forms the liquid base of the custard and carries the other ingredients.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and softens the frozen texture of the ice cream.
Cream
Adds fat, which makes the ice cream richer and creamier.
Vanilla
Adds aroma and flavour to the finished ice cream.
Coarse salt
Lowers the freezing point of the ice, so it gets cold enough to freeze the custard.

The step that matters

Heating the custard after adding the yolks. Egg yolk proteins set when heated, so the custard can curdle or turn grainy if it boils too hard or too long. Stirring the mixture into the milk keeps the heat even and the custard smooth.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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