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Salad

Boiled Dressing

A thickened egg yolk dressing made with mustard, salt, cayenne, sugar, butter, vinegar, and cream or milk.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Boiled Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. In a bowl, mix together the egg yolks, mustard, salt, cayenne, sugar, melted butter, vinegar, and cream or milk.

  2. Cook the mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens like boiled custard.

Finish and serve

  1. If desired, beat the egg whites and fold them in just before serving to increase the quantity.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  5. Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,814 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the dressing as they cook and set into a custard-like texture.
Butter
Adds richness and a smooth, rounded mouthfeel to the dressing.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that sharpens the flavour and balances the richness.
Cream or milk
Adds moisture and softens the dressing for a creamier texture.
Sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the vinegar's sharpness.

The step that matters

Cooking the mixture over low heat. Egg yolks thicken through gentle heat; if the heat is too high or stirring stops, the proteins scramble and the dressing turns grainy instead of smooth.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, pepper, sugar, butter, vinegar, cream):

  1. Capsicumfits about as well
  2. Mustardthe original
  3. Asparagusfits about as well
  4. Potatofits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, pepper, sugar, butter, vinegar, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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