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Pickles

A method for preserving vegetables in vinegar with alum, sugar, spices, and peppers.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horseradish and mustard match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,832 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Pickles

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the pickles

  1. Parboil the pickles in vinegar.

  2. Let them cool completely.

  3. Pour scalding hot vinegar over the cooled pickles.

  4. Dissolve a small lump of alum in the vinegar to keep pickles crisp and green.

Spice and store

  1. For spiced pickles, add cloves and cinnamon in bags, along with bits of horseradish and peppers.

  2. Add a handful of sugar per gallon.

  3. Store pickles in a dry, cool place in stone or glass jars, keeping them covered with vinegar.

  4. If white specks appear on the vinegar, drain and scald it.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horseradish + mustardtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Clove + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  3. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  4. Cinnamon + horseradishtop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together515 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Clove + horseradishtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,245 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Good sharp vinegar
Provides the acidity that preserves the pickles and gives them their sharp flavour.
Alum
Helps keep the pickles firm and crisp, preventing them from softening.
Sugar
Balances the sharpness of the vinegar with sweetness.
Cloves
Adds warm, aromatic spice flavour to the pickling liquid.
Cinnamon
Adds warm, sweet aroma and spice flavour to the pickling liquid.
Horseradish
Adds a pungent, sharp heat that flavours the pickles.

The step that matters

Let the pickles cool completely before pouring on the hot vinegar. Pouring scalding vinegar over warm pickles can soften them and cook their texture, so letting them cool first helps them stay firm and crisp.

Swap the horseradish

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, sugar, clove, cinnamon, pepper, mustard):

  1. Horseradishthe original
  2. Capsicumfits about as well
  3. Shallotfits less well
  4. Radishfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, sugar, clove, cinnamon, pepper, mustard. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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